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Yellowstone County – Your Ancestral Past Trail Series

Out in the Boonies (Trip # 16)

Pompeys Pillar

By Dave Dodge & Cleve Kimmel

Travel the Milwaukee Road from Slayton Junction to Fort Sarpy

 

This trip requires about eight hours and is over 300 miles in length. If weather is BAD, 4-wheel drive with MUD Tires is mandatory; unless you want to meet with the landowner’s tractors? Much of the area to be traversed is through pasture land. In the 1870’s many large cattle outfits from Texas drove their vast herds into the area to feed on the rich grasses for winter feeding. This feeding frenzy continued on past 1902 when 25,000 head of cattle were trailed through the region, passing alongside of the Musselshell River and onto Canadian open ranges in Saskatchewan. By 1903 homesteaders had flocked into the regions, and the available “free” grasses were no more. The Milwaukee Road operated under the name of “Milwaukee and Waukesha Railroad” when incorporated in 1847. The name was soon changed to “Milwaukee and Mississippi Railroad”. This line essentially paralled the NPR route in Montana, and many questioned the wisdom of that act, but the directors believed it was necessary to reach the Pacific if they were to remain in business.  The extension was approved in 1905, and $60 million was appropriated for construction. They completed 2,300 miles of track in only three years. Additional improvements added another $257 million, and forced the company into bankruptcy in 1925. By 1907 the track was operational in the area covered by this trek. Coal from the Bull Mountains fed the engines. The company was originally headquartered in the Railway Exchange Building in Chicago until 1924, when they moved to the Chicago Union Station.  After reorganization, the company launched an advanced version of their famed Hiawatha passenger train, which was capable of traveling over 100 mph. In 1927 the company built the Gallatin Gateway Inn, and reorganized again as the “Chicago, Milwaukee, St Paul and Pacific Railroad.” In January 1928 the name was changed to “The Milwaukee Road.” The following year, the great depression hit, and the line was in serious trouble. In 1935 they filed for bankruptcy, and operated under trusteeship until December 1, 1945.  After WWII the line was restored and the engines dieselized, replacing its fleet of steam and electrified locomotives. In association with the Union Pacific, the line took over operations of the “Cities” passenger trains in LA, San Francisco, Denver and Portland in the late 1950’s. The line section passing through the Musselshell area and into Forsyth and adjoining regions was eliminated for travel during the 1920’s: the track and the ties were removed in the late 1970’s. The full line finally failed in 1986, and was taken over by the Soo Line.[1]

 

This trek traverses alongside of the abandoned railroad line, and the route grade levels are clearly visible throughout the tour. With few exceptions, the former rail station towns and post offices have long vanished. Virtually all of the land is relatively flat as it passes through the agricultural area. Pictures of landscape & visible remains of the railroad grade and some bridges along the travel route show a rather bleak ending to a gallant old line. There are numerous sources available that discuss the origins of the towns and their past history & local genealogy – so that detail won’t be presented; excepting for some obscure tidbits. There is a need to clearly present these towns’ history for all to cherish. Some have been researched and we all thank the individuals for their efforts. If anyone cares to present a detailed or interesting account about any of these towns; I will be glad to post on the Internet for you, including scanning of your material to as-is if desired (Cost is $0.00) for this service – along with the appropriate search indices. After viewing the local area, I find that an in-depth evaluation of the ancient sites and examination of available records is vital to our true Montana History.

 

In 1851 the Government took first steps in trying to reconcile the Indian Nations concern over land usages. This was the Fort Laramie Treaty of 1851. Although it was signed and agreed by all local Indian Nations’ leaders, including the Sioux, when it was presented to the US Senate for final ratification, it was rejected. After eleven years of secret debate, the document was printed and sent to storage. Apparently this careless action initiated the forthcoming starvation and deaths to many tribal members. The area bounded by the Musselshell river was set aside for the Blackfoot to the north, and the Crows to the south. Later in 1868, the boundaries were redrawn, and much of the land became Public Domain. This fertile valley spawned much Indian Rock Art.

 

Slayton Junction

The map on the right shows the post office location and the original townsite position in Section 2, T6N, R21E (Golden Valley). No visible evidence of buildings’ remains, but the railroad junction itself still stands. This location is one of the major sites for American Indian Pecked Art drawings on the rock formations in the area. The ARARA (American Rock Art Research Association) conducts in-depth research in the area. Prior to the founding of Billings, a large “arrow-shaped” rock called Indian Rock, stood at the base of the north rims, near to where 6th Ave N and the road to Boothill Cemetery intersect. It contained art forms very similar to the ones presented in the Slayton Junction setting. Across from the Rail overpass are unusual rock formations.

The PO operated from 4/7/1915 until 9/15/1931.

PO shown @ 46.2999580  -109.0646091 : Town a short distance east. (3514 feet)

Cushman – View from the road looking south, towards where the PO was reported to be located.

Cushman is the second stop. It was named after a local ranch owner, old settler, cowboy & conductor. The locale is slightly south of HWY 12.

Town @ 46°17'17"N   109°2'29"W

Lavina – The Adams Hotel on Main Street

Continue west on HWY 12 and turn south on MT 3. You pass the Lavina Cemetery road Enroute. For a brief period Lavina was called White City since the residents liked to paint their buildings white. There are two reported reasons for the name Lavina: One stated it was named after Lavina, a daughter of settler Vance; the other that Lavina, a girlfriend of Walter Burke who was hired to operate a stage stop between Fort Benton and Billings.

 

Lavina Cemetery. The PO opened 4/3/1883, and is still in use. The Lavina Stage operated between Billings and Lavina for many years. On February 16, 1908 the train made its first stop at New Lavina.

PO @ 46.2941250 -108.9382130 (3448 feet)

Bundy Continue east on HWY 12 and turn south on Deer Creek Rd (near Mile Marker 152). Cross the Musselshell River (small wood piling 20’ bridge). Bundy is about one mile distant.

 

 

PO @ 46.2927366  -108.7787591 (3317 feet)

There are two interesting articles published by the Billings Gazette that tells a great deal about the area and the railroad:

 

“Rollin’ Down the Musselshell”, by Rick & Suzie Graetz (11/2/2003)

 

“Memories all that Remain”, by Cathy Byron (1-10-2003)

 

Short details on the other sites visited on this trek are omitted. Refer to USGS coordinates to create a personalized GPS-TREK for this event with your GPS location device. Please refer to the referenced link above. A travel-log photo shoot in sequence starting at Slayton Junction and continuing to Fort Sarpy, and the Jedediah Smith road sign is contained in trek-photos. This requires Adobe Flash 6 or greater to view. If not installed on your PC, a link is provided to allow acquisition. Each townsite and former post office locations are available on the USGS site, as well as aerial views.

 

Alternately a full screen photo shoot with a self executable file is available (size 11MB). Transition is set at 4 seconds/with sound.

 

It should be noted that Roundup (located at the junction of highways 12 & 87), is directly on the former site of the General  Hazen Trail, created in 1865 as a passageway between Fort Phil Kearny and Fort Benton. Part of highway 87 follows portions of the Hazen Trail; but most of the trail is on private lands.

 

 



[1] Extracted from Billings Gazette articles November 2, 2003 “Rollin’ Down the Musselshell”, by Rick & Susie Graetz, and the Wikapedia.




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Katy Hestand
Yellowstone County Coordinator


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