YELLOWSTONE COUNTY, MONTANA

Yellowstone County – Your Ancestral Past Trail Series

Out in the Boonies #2

Pompeys Pillar

By Dave Dodge

 

 

 

Drake & Kimmel – Twin Monuments

6 July 2003

The Twin Monuments and Local Trails

There were two rock- cairns (Monuments) set on the north edge of the South Hills’ rim rock areas overlooking Monument Creek in Section 5, Township 4 South, and Range 25 East. They are called “Twin Monuments”, and several pictures have been displayed in the Billings Gazette over a span of about 80 years. William Doss first homesteaded this land in the early 1900’s, and city records indicate he arrived here between 1915 and 1916. He received his Land Patent on December 5, 1921 [1] . His brother Samuel homesteaded on the property to the east.  They are located directly on the mid section line extension of T3 S, R25 E, Section 32; approximately 160 feet south of the Township boundary line. The survey conducted by Carl Gleeson August 14, 1903, provided no indication of their existence. Neither did the survey conducted byOtis Ross, Oct 29, 1913. The northernmost Cairn was vandalized as more homesteaders entered the plateau area, with some pieces apparently used in building foundations, others taken just for curiosity.

Vernon Drake authored the interest and development of the article presented herein. He is also responsible for the reconstruction of the vandalized Cairn, using old photographs as the guide. Note the structural retaining ring of large rocks placed about halfway to the top. Several of these pieces weigh over 300 pounds.

The monument is visible for over ten miles from the south, east and west directions from sites where old trails existed. It appears that from the out lying trails one could see where to travel to get up onto the South Hills plateau, and then into the Yellowstone River bottom (Clarks Fork Valley.) Construction of the Twin monuments do not fit the pattern that was so evident for other types of Cairns, especially those conical ones made by sheepherders to mark their territory range borders.

In October 2000, a group of experienced masonry craftsmen and engineers reconstructed the vandalized cairn, but it collapsed soon after. This established the theory that sheepherders couldn’t have created them, since the structural design is tougher to master than originally thought. It would appear that the mass of the stone has to be directed toward the centerline of the cairn to prevent outward collapse, as evidenced by the first reconstruction failure. The cairn was rebuilt, using old photographs as a guide, in the summer of 2002.

There were several cairns in the viewing vicinity, all about seven to ten miles distant, and apparently served some purpose during the early 1900’s. In examining the placement of these Twin Monuments, one can establish for a fact that they are at the center of a series of trails. Why there were two has not been determined, nor has who or when they were constructed been determined. They are positioned about 40 feet apart, and at a true angle of N-42 degrees W.  [Compass bearing is about 30 degrees.] This alignment is not coincidental with the summer or winter solstice angles of the sun. There location doesn’t appear to coincide with any of the early territorial boundaries from the French, English or Spanish acquisitions.

However, there is a close resemblance to the Crow Indian Boundary interpretation resulting from their loss of 1,100,000 acres of land to public domain in 1878-1879. The Director of Geological Survey, on 10 June 1896 signed a treaty with the River Crows establishing permission to survey their lands and establish boundary markers in accordance with the same practice utilized in the rest of the land. Stone monuments or posts placed at the corners were the preferred method. The Indians were left with a central piece of land (Crow Indian Reservation) that was bordered on the west by a ridge of rimmed rocks that bordered by what is presently referred to as “the South Hills” area of Billings. The government (GLO-BLM) surveyed the strip of land between the reservation line and the Yellowstone River, and established corner markers for the sections and quarter sections; plus they identified specific landmarks. Later, in the 1900’s they entered the reservation land, and completed the surveys for the area. For the Indians, their land now ended at the ridge of the rim rocks bordering the South Hills west of Pryor Creek. The last edged rimmed area is at the site occupied by the Twin monuments, and their angular placement parallels the reservation line plotted by the surveyors, but located in the valley floor 1 ½ mile further to the southwest. It is conjectured, that when Paul McCormick established his grazing rights for100, 000 head of sheep on the reservation, along with brother Frank who also had contracts for supplies on the reservation and at Fort Custer, he might have ordered construction of the Twin Monuments, and the numerous others that have been vandalized along Monument Creek, and the ridgelines nearby. His son, Paul, was manager for the road and tunnel construction operations that occurred between 1900 and 1905. His road crews would have been well capable of constructing a rock cairn that would withstand the harsh Montana elements, and that could be used as a marker for his lease-land holdings. Additionally, he traded extensively with the Indians, was granted permission to construct roads through their lands, and he transported great amounts of fresh produce, seed, and meat supplies to both the men that were tending his sheep, and the reservation Indians themselves. For that purpose he would need a series of roads that provided the easiest access from his home base in Billings, and the outlying communities within his vast route. He had the largest freighting outfit in Montana and it would make sense to have visual markers created to indicate where to travel during winter days, when the roads are not visible; and to mark the territorial limits of the Crow Reservation as seen by the Indians at that time.

One amazing feature of the cairn, lying adjacent to the rim’s edge (southernmost one) is that there is a “line of sight” hole, approximately one-half inch in diameter, constructed in the formation. It aims directly to the high point of land at the tip of the South Hills where the USGS High Point in Yellowstone County [2] , elevation marker is located [4971 feet]. This is also on the Monument Trail Line leading across the south boundary of the area, which is marked by many stones and small cairns, placed along the route that leads to where Red Eye Smith’s Saloon was located, and to where the descent and ascent to the plateau was established on the McCormick land. The trail descending from the monuments themselves, was called “Hogs Back” by early settlers, and appears to have been part of the same road that continues on past Bridger.  This could very well have been part of the Original Bridger Trail, as denoted on the 1867 Montana Survey Map. Refer to the trail links shown in this report for details.

It is also probable that the monuments were created by the Story-McAdow Freighters  or other freighter operators when they traveled on the Military Bozeman Road [3] between the Yellowstone and Big Horn. There is no mention of these monuments in any of the early survey field notes. They do indicate water sources for stock is available at the site, and access routes were created for cattle and other livestock to reach the water. These monuments are halfway between water sources available from the rivers.

It is reported that the monuments were actually constructed by ranchers in the area, who had sheep holdings in the land below.

Or perhaps they were constructed to establish directions to Red Eye Smith’s Saloon, collection point for freighters supporting the Burlington-Quincy railroad, located at the top of McCormick Hill on Monument Trail.

The USGS maintains a vast collection of Territory, State and International Boundary Marker files, but do not have any pictures of these cairns. Their design has been observed to be very similar to several others created by the USGS between 1900 and 1905 to mark boundary lines under their jurisdiction, but none were recorded on film, but eyewitnesses recall their appearance. The key element in the design is the incorporation of the structural band of reinforcing large stones placed about four feet up. These retain the structural load within the column, and not allow the forces to be exerted outward, which would lead to their collapse. Unfortunately, no written record of the Monuments has been located. These should be considered for Historical Preservation as a National Archival item when their history has been satisfactorily identified.

Directions to the Site

Note: High Clearance vehicles should be used to access the site.

 

Start Location #1 – Hillcrest Road Access (Yellow Accented Road)

Take the South Billings Blvd road south across the Yellowstone River. It changes name to “Blue Creek Road” shortly after crossing the river. [Note: Blue Creek Road continues on to Pryor Creek Road.] After crossing “Blue Creek”, a small stream that is usually devoid of water, turn southwest and continue on Hillcrest for about ten miles. Where it joins onto “Duck Creek Road.”  From there follow the direction noted in Start Location #2 below.

Note: At about five miles from the departure of Blue Creek Road, you will come to a “Y” near the top of the hill that is very deceiving. On the right is Hanser’s Salvage yard, and that road is called “Keller Road.” Hillcrest continues to the left, and changes to a “rough” gravel road.

Start Location #2 – Duck Creek Road Access (Red Accented Road)

Take the “Duck Creek Road” south across the Duck Creek Bridge, being sure to keep on the east side of the creek. Continue south on the road until it joins with Hillcrest Road entering in from the east.

[Note: The river area just east of the Duck Creek Bridge is where the steamer Josephine, commanded by Col. Forsythe on June 7th, 1875, terminated his journey upriver. The river channels were of different composition then, and further travel was near impractical.]

Continue south on Duck Creek Road (yellow accent), passing by the radio towers. The road then will have a gradual descent into the valley, and then rise up to the plateau and start a sharp turn southward. At this point, on the right will be a barbed wire fence and cattle gate. The gate is about 30 feet in length, with a release clamp on the left side post. Please close the gate after entering and leaving. At this point you will be entering private land, of which permission to travel over to visit the monuments has been granted. [Contact the Webmaster for details of ownerships.]

The monuments are not visible from this point. The road crosses the face of the South Hills Cliffs, and is about one-half mile in distance from the monuments.

Monument Trailhead Location

The access start of the trail is off Collier Road as indicated. The entire trail is on private land, and access must be obtained from landowners before entering. Here Red Eye Smith’s Saloon was located. This is also the Paul McCormick Trail, and the Trail used by Perry McAdow & Nelson Story when they had a supply contract with Fort C. F. Smith in 1867 & 1868. The Twin Monuments and the Monument Trailhead connect with each other by following the South Hills Ridgeline “Monument Trail” road across the edge of the cliffs. This entire trail is on private land, and access permission must be obtained before entering.


[1] BLM Patent Ascension file # 836925.

[2] The Bench Mark states 4971 feet, the 2004 USGS Topo Maps verify the height of 4971 feet.

[3] This road was the Sawyers route established in 1866, and re-identified by Jim Bridger in August 1866. Used almost exclusively by Nelson Story & Perry McAdow for freighting between Gallatin County farms and Fort C. F. Smith. The route initially laid out by Bridger is full of ravines and gullies. The survey maps for that time period show the route to pass through the south edge of South Hills.

 

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