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Yellowstone County History
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Early Trails – Diary Extracts
[Reference: Journey to the Land of Gold,
Susan Doyle’s emigrant diary extractions]
Revised 6 February 2002
The trails used by early settlers and those wishing to gain
“fast-passage” into the gold fields of western Montana Territory
had a difficult time once they reached the Badlands and South Hills area of the
Crow Indian land. Initially the south hills area [large plateau area south of Billings] was virtually
impassable by wagon trains. Fortunately, as they passed through the reservation
land, their wagons left significant depressions in the soil that was readily
evident when the 1878 & 1879 topographical surveys were initiated. As later
surveyors re-examined the land, and added more quarter section markers, they
also added many comments, such as fences and homes. The survey
notes and the diary extractions together help form a realistic view of
where some of the travelers went as they passed through, or hauled freight. Sawyers
demanded that all wagons travel in a single file in order to leave deep
depressions in the soil (road making). Travelers in his trains were not
permitted to spread out across the landscape.
Sawyers Expedition June 13, 1865 [Notes for the
route through the Yellowstone Regions, 18 to
26 September Journey]
·
Sawyers James
A. Sawyers, Expedition leader
·
Smith Lewis
H. Smith, Engineer for the Sawyer Expedition. [Experienced surveyor and clerk,
age 30, Capitalization added to his remarks.]
·
Lee C.
M. Lee, Teamster, with a gunsmith license. [Capitalization and spelling
corrections added for clarity]. Refer to Journeys to the Land of Gold
for non-capitalized versions.
Date
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Diary
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Travel Remarks
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Times
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Mileage
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18 September
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Sawyers
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Camped on small creek [War Man] at 3 pm, after traveling sixteen miles
over rolling country; day very warm. Much heavy grading was required to
descend the bluff into valley [of the Big Horn River], but a further
reconnaissance made, after arriving in the valley, showed a better place to
descend the bluffs, which, however, will have to have considerable work done
upon it before it can be traveled.
The [Bighorn] valley is about two to three miles wide, and has much fine
grass in it, and considerable timber grows in the bends of the stream;
immense herds of buffalo and large numbers of antelope range in every
direction; white elk, deer, and bears abound and serve to render this country
emphatically a hunter’s paradise. The hunters, during the day’s
march, killed three bears and a large quantity of other game. No signs of
hostile Indians were seen to day.
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A 3 pm
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16.0
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Smith
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Fine day but very warm. Came 16 miles over very rough country and camped
on a small creek [War Man Creek] in Bighorn bottom. Lots of buffalo in sight
and many wolves. Three bears shot; soil better and country good but very
rough. A hill going down into Bighorn very steep and Big Horn bottom fine.
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16.0
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Lee
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Monday, warm. Started early. Traveled 16 miles in a northwesterly course
over a very rough and hilly country. Within ten miles of mountains and camped
within sight of the Big Horn River on a small branch [War Man Creek]. In
coming down onto the valley of the river [Big Horn] there is a very long and
steep hill to descend. Had to rough lock the wagons [wheels] with log chains.
We put part of the teams behind the wagon to assist in holding back. All got
down safely [Sawyers new route.] A short time after crossing the branch we
are camped on the wagon driven by Nute Hollister was upset. The first one [to
upset] for a long time. Between 10 and 11 [am] today we crossed a fine
camping stream [West Soap Creek]. The country around here is alive with game,
buffalo, deer, antelope, and bear of the cinnamon or brown specie. Some of
the soldiers killed one [bear] just at camp. The scent of them is very
offensive to me, so much so that I cannot bear the meat at all, though some
of the boys expressed a great liking for it. None of the bull whackers are on
guard tonight. Crossed water between ten and eleven [West Soap Creek.]
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16
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19 September
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Sawyers
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Came six miles [up the Bighorn River] over good roadbed in the valley, and
grading down the banks, forded the Big Horn River. This stream is about 400 feet wide, and in
most places, at the time we were there, would swim a horse, but after
repeated trials we found a place with only 3 ½ feet of water. All hands went
at work with a will, and at 11 am the teams were all crossed and corralled on
the north side of the river. The current runs with great rapidity, and many
men were carried some ways down the river by it, but all finally crossed
safely. Captain Brown’s orders not permitting him to further than this
place with us, as at this place we were considering nearly out of danger, he
detailed sergeant James Yoachum [Yoacham], with seven men to proceed with us
to Virginia City, and afterwards to report to him at Salt Lake City, while
the balance of his command returned with him to General Connor. Sergeant
Yoachum performed his duty in a very prompt and energetic manner during the
balance of the expedition. To Captain Brown I wish to express my heartfelt
thanks, and those also of the rest of the members of the expedition, for the
safe and expeditious manner in which he escorted us through the Indian
Country. A better officer than himself, or better troops than those under his
command, are not to be found in the service.
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A 11am
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6.0
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Smith
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Came north six miles and crossed the Big Horn in good shape, river is
about 300 feet wide and three and a half deep in channel. Very Swift.
Corralled on west bank of stream and turned out the cattle. Got over at 11
am. All across. Escort camped on east side of river. [We} reloaded the wagons
etc. Gave Baptiste [Defond] a statement of account [for] 3 months 13 days
amount due him $402.68. Gave him statement of account.
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A 11am
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6.0
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Lee
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Started early. Got to the bank of the Big Horn River by
_____o’clock, and across by one. This is the largest stream we have crossed
yet. Most places it will swim a team. We crossed over onto a small island.
The water coming up to the hubs. Then passed up the island a short distance
and crossed the remaining portion of the stream. Here the water is almost to
the wagon bed. Above or below the track it was still deeper and very swift.
But all got across safely by having horsemen on each side to keep the cattle
straight. Except one of the emigrant wagons. His team swung down stream into
deep water and came near drowning his family. But getting assistance promptly
succeeded in getting out safely with a wet load. Here our escort is going to
leave us except some eight of the 2nd California boys. None of
their teams crossed over, but camped on the south side while we camped on the
north. Scouts [were] sent out as far as they could go and came back again.
[They] report no Indians or Indian signs in the country. Came six miles [to
the ford.]
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Cross 1 pm
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6.0
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Doyle comment
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At the Bighorn crossing Sawyers hired Huber Rouleau, one of Connor’s
guides who was with the escort. It was soon apparent, however, that Rouleau
was totally unfamiliar with the region, which forced Sawyers
to follow Bozeman’s 1864 route west of the Bighorn.
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20 September
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Sawyers
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Fine day, many buffaloes in sight; crossed one creek [Hay Creek] by
bridging and another by fording [Beauvais Creek]; traveled eighteen miles over
a country requiring considerable grading in places to make it passable, and
camped on a creek [Little Woody Creek] leading into the Big Horn. Grass,
water, and wood poor at this camp.
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18.0
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Smith
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Came 18 miles and camped on a dry creek [Little Woody Creek] with water
about in holes. No grass or hardly any. Roads in forenoon fine but quite
broken in the afternoon. Country more like the Cheyenne than any we have
seen. Some buffalo about. Crossed two small muddy creeks [Hay Creek and
Beauvais Creek] with bad bottoms.
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18.0
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Lee
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Wednesday warm. Started early and traveled 18
miles and camped on a dry branch [Little Woody Creek] in which water
stands only in holes at present. No wood and very little grass. During the
forenoon the road was very good and level and through a good country. But in
the afternoon it was the most miserable rough hilly, crooked, and sideling
[road]. The country barren and considerable of alkali. Crossed two branches
[Hay Creek and Beauvais Creek] that would make good camping streams but very short drive from Big Horn of eleven miles.
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18.0
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21 September
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Sawyers
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Cool, cloudy day; came nineteen and a half miles over a fair-lying
country, and camped on Pryor’s fork [Pryor Creek] at 6 pm; in two or
three places much grading had to be done to render a passage safe for the
double wagons of the freight train. Pryor’s fork is about thirty feet
wide by two feet deep, with good wood and grass upon its banks, and a swiftly-running
current of pure water. Thousands of
buffalo, elk, deer, and antelope were seen during the day.
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A 6pm
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19 ½
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Smith
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Cool cloudy day. Cattle got but little grass in the morning. Drove over good
gamma grass. County fair laying land. 19 ½ miles northwest to Pryors Fork
[Pryor Creek] where we camped. Buffalo very plenty and antelope seen by
thousands. Got in late to camp. Let cattle lie out all night. Fine day for
travel but very windy toward night.
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A Late
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19 ½
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Lee
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Thursday, cool and windy and very dusty.
Towards night quite cool. Started a little late and traveled 19 ½
miles and camped at sundown on a fine branch of running water called
Pryor’s Fork I believe [Pryor Creek.] The road was tolerably good. The
country very rough and hilly, but generally covered with good grass and
dotted over in every direction with immense herds of buffalo. Plenty of fresh
meat in camp tonight. Buffalo and antelope. The country to day has very much
the appearance of having once been under water, at least most of it. The
hills for miles being perpendicular clay or rock [sedimentary sandstone] like
the banks of most of the streams. Also considerable of scrub pine along the
hills and ravines.
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19 ½
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22 September
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Sawyers
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Fine day; came eleven miles in a northerly direction, and camped on the
Yellowstone river at 12 pm [noon]. The last five miles of the road was very rough,
and much grading was done to enable us to descend the bluff of the
Yellowstone bottom, where we found, on arriving, plenty of wood, water, and
grass.
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A noon
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11
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Smith
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Came 11 miles to Yellowstone River. Last five miles very rough and hill
going down to river rougher than any we have seen. Course very near north.
Got to camp at 2 pm. Grass and water in Yellowstone bottom very good and
plenty of wood. Buffalo very plenty. Also wolves and antelope.
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A 2pm
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11
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Lee
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[Friday] cool. An overcoat was quite comfortable during the morning.
Started tolerably early. Traveled 11 miles and camped on the bank of the
Yellow Stone River. Our course since leaving the Big Horn has been a little
more north than west, I think. The country to day was very rough, and as we
neared the river it became worse. Quite a valley along the river on the other
side [north] and as we came in sight of it from the top of the bluffs
[Sacrifice Cliffs] it was literally covered with buffalo as far as you could
see. Also the road to day they [buffalo] were if any odds thicker than ever
and frequently ran so close to the train that the drivers could shoot them
down as they walked beside their teams. They do not appear to be collected in
very heavy droves but are scattered all over the face of the country quietly
grazing or lying down.
The descent from the bluffs to the river is very
steep and dangerous, at least two hundred feet I should judge. The
first half is not very steep, then pass along a descending and sideling ridge
barely wide enough for a road for a couple of hundred of yards to the last
descent which is at an angle of about 65 degrees and around a curve with only
just room for the road. On the left was a steep bank
and on the right a high hill. Before starting down this last hill we
rough locked both hind wheels with log chains and went ahead trusting to
Providence. All got down safely. The river here is quite a respectable stream
with a rocky and gravely bottom and a very swift current. Not a great deal of
timber. Cottonwood, willow, elm.
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11
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23 September
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Sawyers
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Traveled up the Yellowstone [east side] eighteen miles, to the mouth of
Clark’s fork [Clarks Fork], where we corralled; grass, wood, and water
good on the route. Fords were made across two small streams, and ravines were
graded down in several places; plenty of game in sight all day; weather very
fine.
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18.0
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Smith
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Came 8 miles. Leaving bottom land and going onto bluffs. Coming back to
bottomland and traveling up 5 miles to near the mouth of Clarks fork where we
camped for Sunday. Day fine and road very crooked but good traveling except
going in and out of bottomlands. Buffalo and wolves plenty. Saw a bear. Cut
off should be made from Pryors to Clarks fork. Course south to west.
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8.0
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Lee
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[Saturday], cool in morning, but warm during the day. Traveled eighteen
miles and camped on the Yellowstone again. Followed
up the river five or six miles. Then ascended the bluffs making quite a
detour to the south to head some ravines. Part of the time we were not over
three or four miles from yesterday’s trail. The road very good. Came
down from the bluffs into a dry creek [Duck Creek] a short distance from the
river. Which we followed down to the river. Then proceeded up the valley four
or five miles and camped on the bank of the stream [Yellowstone River.]
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18.0
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24 September
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Sawyers
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Sunday; fine day; remained in camp all day.
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Camp
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Smith
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Fine day; stayed in camp all day. Fixed up goods. Packed cigars etc.
Plenty of buffalo on the other side of the Yellowstone. Everything getting
ready to move as fast as possible tomorrow.
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Camp
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Lee
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[Sunday] No entry
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Camp
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25 September
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Sawyers
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Came southwest nineteen and a half miles, crossing Clark’s fork, and
camped on Rocky fork [Rock Creek]. Clark’s fork is about one hundred and
fifty feet wide at the crossing, by one and a half foot deep, with very swift
current, and the water, at the time of our crossing, was quite muddy,
probably from snow melting on the mountains, or from the immense herds of
buffalo that were crossing above. From the point where we encamped, a
reconnaissance made decided that we should have struck Pryor’s fork
more to the west, and thense west across the country, as water could be found
on Clark’s fork at convenient places for camping. My guide [Hubert Rouleau],
whom I hired on the Big Horn, was an old mountaineer, and pretended to know
all about the country when I hired him, yet he could not tell, when at
Pryor’s fork, if water could be got on this cut-off or not, and I
feared to try it so late in the season without being sure.
Had I known at Pryor’s fork what I learned at this camp, I should have
come direct, and the road should be made, and thus avoid the Yellowstone
bluffs to this place.
I am satisfied that a saving of over twenty miles can be made by this
cut-off.
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19 ½
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Smith
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Came southwest 19 ½ miles. Camped on Rocky Creek
[Rock Creek] 1 ½ miles above fork with the Clarks creek [Clarks Fork].
Face of country good to travel over and days travel fine. Generally country
hazy so that we couldn’t see around much. Grass at camp poor. Wood and
water fine.
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19 ½
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Lee
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Monday, Cool in morning. Traveled 20 miles to day and camped on the main
branch of Clark’s Fork [Rock Creek] on the west side. Crossed Clark’s Fork a mile or two from last
night’s camp and followed the bluffs between it and Yellowstone during
the afternoon. Passed an old trail to the right where Bozeman
undertook to reach the Yellowstone and could not get down to the river [and
he] had to come back onto this trail. The road very good. [We] are traveling
south pretty fast and not much west.
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20
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26 September
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Sawyers
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Fine day; crossed Rocky fork [Rock Creek] to the south side, and traveled about
four miles up the valley, over a beautiful level country, thense recrossed
the stream and struck off westerly up Berdan’s fork [Red Lodge Creek],
and camped on that stream, after traveling thirteen miles. Rocky fork is a beautiful stream, with considerable timber
in the bends, and is about seventy-five feet wide by one and one and a half
foot deep, with very swift-running current over rocky bed, and runs into
Clark’s fork below our camp of last night. Berdan’s fork
is smaller, and runs into Rocky fork from the west; we made good fords over
these streams at the crossings.
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13.0
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Smith
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Fine day. Crossed Rocky fork and traveled a while on east bank. Recrossed
and came over to Fork where we camped near where the road leaves it. Days
travel southwest about 13 miles. Grass, wood and water good. The country
smoother in valleys. Should have made a cut off from Pryors fork to Rocky
Fork. [This cut off would be where the Bozeman trail intersected the Bridger
trail.]
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13.0
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Lee
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Tuesday, cool morning. Traveled 12 miles crossing the stream [Rock Creek]
upon which we camped last night twice. Then followed up a branch of it [Red
Lodge Creek] a few miles. Crossed over and camped on the west bank [where
trail left it.] Tolerably good roads, the streams are all very rocky.
Considerable of timber along them and some scrub pine along the bluffs. The
road very stony in places.
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12
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Sawyers 2nd Expedition Summer 1866 [Notes
for the route through the Yellowstone Regions, 26 July to 5 August 1866
Journey]
·
Sawyers James
A. Sawyers, Expedition leader
Date
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Diary
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Travel Remarks
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Times
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Mileage
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26 July
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Sawyers
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Broke camp at 5 am, weather fine. Traveled 6 7/10 miles to branch of
Little Horn [Lodge Grass Creek] – crossed another branch [Rotten Grass
Creek] 4 2/10 miles where we nooned – made 6 3/10 miles in the
afternoon and corralled on a high table prairie about ½ mile from Indian
Creek [Soap Creek] – Here a mule train had evidently been corralled by
the Indians, the grass being eaten close inside and mown outside the
corral.
The march today has been over a fine rolling country, pure cold water in
the streams and an abundance of timber on their banks. As the herders were
driving their stock from the water they were fired at by Indians from the
ravines and brush – Their fire was promptly returned and they
skedaddled through the thick brush up and down the stream. It is strange how
the men escaped being hit, as the Indians were in ambush, distant not to
exceed 100 to 125 yards. Total distance 17 2/10 miles.
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D 5am
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17 2/10
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27 July
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Sawyers
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Broke camp at 5 am, fine day- After following the road about 4 miles we
turned to the right to avoid a very steep and rocky hill and made a new road
through a more level country- Crossed a tributary of the Big Horn [Soap
Creek] whose course we followed for some miles and nooned on its banks, 10
5/10 miles. Wood, water, and grass good. Five miles further and we reached
the Big Horn at 5 pm. The Big Horn is a rapid turbid stream from 4 to 500
feet in width and from 6 to 10 feet deep in the channel, with quicksand
bottom close to the bank, and boulder bottom bed in the current –
Timber principally Cottonwood. Total distance traveled 15 5/10 miles.
[Spotted Rabbit Crossing]
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D 5am
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15 5/10
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28 July
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Sawyers
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Spent the morning attempting to find a ford but failed owing to the River
being unusually high- Then constructed a good strong raft and attempted to
stretch a rope across the River, but failed owing to rapid current and the
raft being too unwieldy to manage without a rope was useless- Night coming on
closed our labors.
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None
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29 July
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Sawyers
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Sunday. Took four men and went up the river 6 miles to search for a ford,
when I discovered on the opposite bank some wagons corralled. On approaching
them I ascertained that they had a flat[boat] which would answer to float the
wagons over, the stock having to be swam across- For the use of the flat they
asked the modest sum of $7.50 per wagon, and allow us to do all the work.
These wagons were surrounded by a high earth work and belonged to Messr
[Cyrenius] Beers & Co. His train, which passed here some 12 days before
and had an encounter with the Arrapahoes, loosing 60 mules and having one man
wounded who still lies inside the corrall in a dangerous condition-
Returning to camp I brought the train up, corralling them close to the
crossing.
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66.0
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30 July
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Sawyers
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Weather cloudy & cool- light showers of rain- Commenced crossing the
wagons at 4 pm and by 6 pm all the wagons were safely over and the stock with
the exception of one ox which was lost.
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D 4am
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None
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31 July
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Sawyers
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At this point I hired a half breed to guide me through Pryor’s Gap
[Devil’s Gap]]- I agreed to pay him $4 per day and board and take him
to Bozeman city where he lived..
Broke camp at 4 am- Three miles of level road across the bottom
brought us to the bluff up which we made a road, which the teams had no
difficulty in ascending- then came to a high level plateau, and after 6 1/10
miles camped on a spring [in a] ravine [Gold Spring]. – Plenty of wood,
grass and splendid water- In the afternoon traveled 10 6/10 miles crossing 4
small creeks on all of which we made good crossings, by grading down the
banks, and corralled at 6 pm on fork of the Nez Parese [Nez Perce eg, Buster
Creek, a fork of Beauvais Creek]- Plenty of wood, and grass good. Total distance
traveled 16 7/10 miles.
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D 4am
A 6 pm
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16 7/10
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1 August
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Sawyers
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Broke camp at 5am. Weather warm- road through broken country, crossed by
numerous ravines on which much labor had to be done.- Crossed 4 small creeks,
all good camping grounds- Nooned on the Nez Perese River [Beauvais Creek],
here a mere creek full of Beaver dams-
our camp seems fairly walled in by mountains and Buttes- Made 8 1/10 miles-
Mercury 90º in the shade. Started again at 2 pm- road through Pryor’s
Gap rough. Emerging from the hills are corralled on a small stream [Hay
Creek], swollen by a Beaver dam, which we cut away- A fine Beaver was killed,
hence the name Beaver Creek- Made 4 2/10 miles in the afternoon. Total
distance 12 3/10 miles.
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D 5am
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12 3/10
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2 August
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Sawyers
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Broke camp at 5 am. Weather clear and warm- road better- Camped at noon on
Pryors Fork [Pryor Creek] of the Yellowstone River, a fine stream with a
gravel bed, about 25 feet wide and one and one half feet deep, with fine
grass and plenty of fuel- made 9 2/10 miles- Broke camp at 2 pm. Crossed some
hills requiring much grading- Made 6 5/10 miles and corralled at 7 pm on Wolf
Creek. [Probably camped on Upper Macheta Creek, a few miles east of Wolf
Creek] General course west- Total distance 15 7/10 miles.
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D 5am
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15 7/10
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3 August
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Sawyers
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Broke camp at 5 am. Weather cool and cloudy. 12 1/10 miles brought us to
the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River- This is a beautiful stream about
150 feet wide and at present 4 feet deep- gravel bed.
Had to raise our wagon beds about one foot in order to cross without
damaging our supplies, which we accomplished and corralled on the opposite
side (west) at 7 pm. The road today was through a fine rolling country with
some ravines on which we did considerable grading to make good crossings.
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D 5am
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12 1/10
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4 August
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Sawyers
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Broke camp at 4 am. Weather clear and cool- 5 8/10 miles brought us to
Rocky Creek [Rock Creek], a fine well wooded stream, with rapid current,
which we crossed striking the old road on the west side [Bridger Trail]- By
traveling direct from Big Horn through Pryor’s Gap to this point we
saved 26 miles-
Traveled up the creek 4 4/10 miles, again crossed and camped- This stream
is full of trout, an abundance of which were caught- Made 4 3/10 miles in the
afternoon and corralled on Berdans Fork [Red Lodge Creek] of Rocky Creek. 14
5/10 miles in all.
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D 4am
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14 5/10
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5 August
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Sawyers
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Sunday, Rainy day.
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None
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1866 Diaries of Emigrant Trains that
Followed After Sawyer’s 2nd Expedition
(Extracted Information)
Only a few of the diarists reported
a continuous log of their mileages. Most just used descriptive terms to describe
their journey.
Date
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Diary
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Travel Remarks
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Times
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Mileage
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15 August
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Davis Wilson
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Charlie Rich, William Phillips, George & Dick returned from Ft CF
Smith just before daylight. Made arrangements to cross with
Kirkendahl’s train. Jim Bridger placed in charge of the train. Passed
nearly 200 wagons and camped for dinner on little clear stream, [War Man
Creek] three miles from the fort. Arrived at fort and waited until next day
to cross. 15 wagons ahead of us.
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16 August
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Davis Wilson
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Ferry was large flat boat, roughly built and had to be rowed across.
Current takes it downstream, and mules pull it back. Cost $5 to cross.
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17 August
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Davis Wilson
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Had to wait for Halderman. Got under way at 2 pm. Traveled until 10:30 pm,
and didn’t catch train ahead.
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18 August
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Davis Wilson
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Left at daybreak. Traveled 1-1/2 mile and found other trains cooking
breakfast. Bad roads, bad crossings of ravines. Are in a volcanic region
called “Badlands.” Good
water, little feed.
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19 August
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Davis Wilson
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Looked like awful eruption here. Land appears to have lava on it. Rocks
piled high on each other. Tablelands covered with grass. Camped at noon on
small creek filled with beaver dams. In the afternoon came out of the
Badlands. Some table lands on the right (north) but mostly rolling prairie
with high bluffs and somewhat mountainous to the left (south.) Saw trains
ahead.
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Benjamin Dailey was with Fox Train
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20 August
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Benjamin Dailey
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Travel’d til noon. Corraled for dinner by small creek. Stared again at
3 pm. Camped on prairie where there were several springs of cold water north
of the road. There are rocks on the prairie that from a distance, look like
the ruins of some great temple. Soft sandstone.
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21 August
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Benjamin Dailey
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Stopped at small creek at noon. James Mauldin’s train went ahead.
Camped on bank of creek. Road rough and hilly, steep banks to the creek.
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22 August
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Benjamin Dailey
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Travell’d two miles and came to Mauldin’s Train. They upset a
wagon and broke it. Travell’d another four miles and corralled on bank
of a creek. [Thought to be East Pryor Creek] Travelled six miles and camped
at some springs. [Millard Springs] Crossed a large creek [earlier] two miles
east of where we camped. [Probably Deep Creek; Hay Creek is 3-1/2 miles east]
Pass’d through a gap or cut in the hills that looked like it had been
cut by the hands of man. The wall of hills on each side is about 20 ft high.
Pass’d over a piece of flat prairie. Grass is good. Road generally very
hilly and steep.
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23 August
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Benjamin Dailey
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After five miles corralled on north bank of creek of clear water. Traveled about three miles. Came to small
creek that was dam’d by beavers until it resembled a small lake. Dam
was 30 ft long and water rose 1-1/2 feet.
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24 August
|
Benjamin Dailey
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Arrived at Clark’s Fork.
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|
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Thomas Creigh Last Diarist to report
Crossing
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5 September
|
Thomas Creigh
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Drove til’ 5 pm. [Probably made it to Gold Springs]
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6 September
|
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Corral’d on small creek Drove four [more] miles and crossed three
creeks, and corral’d at 6 pm.
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7 September
|
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Passed over miserably hilly road and corral’s on creek. Party of Indians
passed on bluffs ½ mile distant. Corral’d at 6 pm on creek. Hilly
roads. Pass’d through Pryor’s Gap.
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8 September
|
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Stayed in camp. Snowing on mountains a few miles from us. Indians stole a
mule.
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9 September
|
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Roads good except one bad hill. Good spring for men. Corraled on large
creek, good grass.
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10 September
|
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Drove up creek 5 miles and corralled on dry creek. Making 13-1/2 miles
this morning. Crossed Clark’s Fork. Met small party of Crows and escorted
us to our camp.
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1866 Route Mileage Summary Listing
Comparisons
Reference
|
Route Segment Identified
|
Sawyers’ Diary
|
Fox –Aug 20th
|
Blythe – Aug 17th
|
Land of Gold
Averages
|
|
|
|
Segment
|
Total
|
Segment
|
Total
|
Segment
|
Total
|
Segment
|
Total
|
|
Start
|
Big Horn River Crossing
|
0
|
0
|
0
|
0
|
0
|
0
|
0
|
0
|
|
1
|
Gold Springs (Ox Camp)
|
6.1
|
6.1
|
7.0
|
7.0
|
|
|
6.0
|
6.0
|
|
1A
|
East Fork Muddy Creek
|
|
|
2.0
|
9.0
|
|
|
|
|
|
2
|
Muddy Creek Crossing (Horse & Mule Camp)
|
|
|
|
|
9.0
|
9.0
|
4.0
|
10.0
|
|
2A
|
Local Spring (Un-named)
|
|
|
4.0
|
13.0
|
|
|
|
|
|
3
|
Point Creek Crossing
|
|
|
0.5
|
13.5
|
|
|
3.0
|
13.0
|
|
3A
|
Buster Creek Crossing (Fork of the Nez Perce - Pryor Creek)
|
10.6
|
16.7
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
4
|
East Buster Creek Crossing
|
|
|
|
|
6.0
|
15.0
|
3.0
|
16.0
|
|
5
|
Middle Buster Creek Crossing
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1.5
|
17.5
|
|
6
|
West Buster Creek Crossing
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1.5
|
19.0
|
|
7
|
Scott Creek Crossing
|
|
|
6.5
|
20.0
|
5.0
|
20.0
|
1.0
|
20.0
|
|
8
|
Push Creek Crossing
|
|
|
1.0
|
21.0
|
|
|
2.0
|
22.0
|
|
9
|
Beauvais Creek Crossing (Divide of Wind River
Mountains)
|
8.1
|
24.8
|
3.0
|
24.0
|
|
|
2.0
|
24.0
|
|
10
|
East Pryor Creek Crossing
[Will James Cabin located here]
|
|
|
|
|
6.0
|
26.0
|
3.0
|
27.0
|
|
11
|
Pryor Gap
|
|
|
4.0
|
28.0
|
|
|
1.0
|
28.0
|
|
12
|
Hay Creek Crossing (Beaver dams in area) [Beaver Creek]
|
4.2
|
29.0
|
|
|
|
|
1.0
|
29.0
|
|
13
|
Deep Creek Crossing
|
|
|
3.0
|
31.0
|
|
|
2.0
|
31.0
|
|
14
|
Millard Springs Rest Stop
|
|
|
1.5
|
32.5
|
|
|
1.5
|
32.5
|
|
15
|
Middle Creek Crossing
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
0.5
|
33.0
|
|
16
|
Porcupine Creek Crossing
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
0.5
|
33.5
|
|
17
|
Ice Water Springs Rest Stop (Sulphur Springs)
|
|
|
|
|
15.0
|
41.0
|
3.5
|
37.0
|
|
18
|
Pryor Creek Crossing
|
9.2
|
38.2
|
9.0
|
41.5
|
|
|
2.0
|
39.0
|
|
19
|
Macheta Creek Crossing
|
|
|
|
|
6.0
|
47.0
|
7.0
|
46.0
|
|
20
|
Wolf Springs Rest Stop
|
6.5
|
44.7
|
|
|
|
|
3.0
|
49.0
|
|
21
|
Five Mile Creek Crossing
|
|
|
13.0
|
54.5
|
|
|
4.0
|
53.0
|
|
22
|
Clark’s Fork River Crossing
|
12.1
|
56.8
|
2.0
|
56.5
|
12.0
|
59.0
|
3.0
|
56.0
|
|
23
|
Rock Creek 1st Crossing (Intersected
Bozeman’s Old Trail)
|
5.8
|
62.6
|
6.0
|
62.5
|
7.0
|
66.0
|
6.0
|
62.0
|
|
|
Total mileage
|
|
62.6
|
|
62.5
|
|
66.0
|
|
62.0
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Comments: Sawyers’ route passed through the
Pryor Gap on East Pryor Creek for about two or three miles then crosses Hay Creek.
The other wagon trains apparently missed this route as it passed southwest
through the canyons. They crossed Pryor Gap by passing almost straight across
the creek. This cutoff brought them about two miles north of Sawyers’
trail. They continued on this route for about six miles, and rested at Millard
Springs [Located in SW corner of Section 31, Tp 5S, Rn 27E.] The current BLM
topo maps plot the Bozeman Trail as passing ½ mile south of this spring. The
old survey maps show the alternate Bozeman Road used by most of the trains
reported in Land of Gold diaries as passing directly through the spring area,
and the Sawyers version of the trail passing 2-1/2 miles south of the spring.
These two route segments join together about two miles east of the Pryor Creek
crossing. Ice Water Springs is located at that juncture. As evident from the
mileages reported above, the routes depict different stopping points for the
segments; but the total distance traveled is the same. The balances of the
route segments are virtually identical. The departure at Pryor’s Gap
would imply that Sawyers didn’t do a very good job of road building if
the trains that came within two weeks of his passage couldn’t find the
trail markings. This is even stranger, since Jim Bridger was leading the first
train west after Sawyers made the cutoff.
The combined segments 4-7 would provide a trail that leads
through the mid-point of the streams. At that location the creeks pass through very
steep ravines, about 50 to 80 feet deep, with side slopes about 50 degrees. It
wouldn’t be practical to have the wagons traverse that area. According to
the old maps, the trail skirts these creeks to the north, and crosses only
Buster Creek near its juncture with its southern tributaries.
From other diaries it appears that each train took a slight
variation of the trail as they passed west. None appeared to have crossed onto
the plateaus of the South Hills [by the Twin Monuments], nor did they go below
the route established by James Sawyers in 1866. Generally they stayed near the
centerline of the Sawyers’ route. Samuel Blythe reported that the
Sawyers’ new road was real rough and they made little headway.
Examination of the route between the Big Horn River and
Pryor Creek, south of the Sawyers’ trail, shows no evidence of extensive
rock formations noted by the emigrants. These formations exist north of the
Sawyers’ trail, and are in or near to the center divide, Wild Horse
Ridge. This area is generally called Badlands on the newer maps. This would
mean that the multiple small creeks that these travelers report as having
crossed wouldn’t be the tributaries of Buster Creek, but more likely
Mott, Point and the two branches of Horse Coulee Creeks that lead directly into
the Buster Creek crossing. View of the land indicates that the route they
follow appears to be a natural trail. It follows the land contours without
having to cross the extensive coulees that line the other southern tributaries.
It seems almost impossible for wagon trains to cross the Buster Creek
tributaries.
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© 2014 MTGenWeb
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