MY
NATIVE STATE
by Dickie Coulter -- December 25, 1960
Indians have
their legends,
Pirates have their gold.
Summer has its heat
And Winter has its cold.
People have their loved ones
To which they are so true,
But I also have a native state
That I am loyal to.
In the west it
has its mountains,
In the east, its flatter lands.
In the north, its glacier scenery,
In the south, Crow Indian bands.
Tho the sky may oft be cloudy
And the ground be deep in snow,
You will meet the finest people
You could ever want to know.
Like every
other state
Near land or near the sea,
A wonderful state like this
Must have its history.
It was born in 1889
Of which we all agree
It's just as beautiful today
As it will ever be.
Way back in
1905 they say,
Lewis and Clark came thru
And from that April day
It grew and grew and grew.
First came the
trappers, who
Were out for hides and skin.
Next came the cattlemen, who
Sent back for their kin.
Soon the
Indians aroused
And started out to raid.
But lives they took, with
Their own they costly paid.
Next came the settlers,
Who planned to settle down;
Some built up a homestead,
While others built the town.
Then there
were rustlers
Who worked only for greed;
They stole horses and cattle
Of every brand and breed.
But then the law moved in
To help the country out.
This soon made the rustlers
Afraid, without a doubt
We like to go
to rodeos
To see the broncos buck,
The cowboys win their prizes
If they have a little luck.
Few men wear their neckties;
Some prefer a bandana;
Now you have guessed it --
My state is MONTANA?
EARLY HISTORY
by I. Willmore
The area
surrounding Black Butte, and the northeastern corner of
the Judith Mountains, across the rolling prairie lands
north to the Missouri River breaks and down to the river
bottoms and east to Valentine, comprise the area of our
history. It is approximately 40 miles square.
The Roy valley has an elevation of 3100 feet and the breaks,
where Armells Creek dumps into the Missouri River, is 2900
feet at the top of the ridge and 2200 feet on the bottom.
Black Butte and the Judiths frame the southwestern boundary.
Under the vast skyline, and clear atmosphere, distances
can be deceiving and the Little Rocky Mountains and the
Bear Paws to the north, at times, can look to be within
'hands' reach. The prairie and breaks lay in between.
The prairie is an everchanging land. In the spring it is a
mixture of light greens, grays and silvers, yellows,
reddish-pinks and blues. In the fall it is gray and gold
and brown. The highly erodable soil, "gumbo", in summer's
heat becomes a powdery dust that whirl winds, or even a
cow trailing to water, can send blowing high into the
atmosphere. A rain shower can quickly turn it into a
sticky greasy glue-like substance
that can halt a vehicle's travel and make
walking almost impossible, for man or beast.
The prairie land is covered with sage brush, grasses and
cactus. On wet years it can be a sea of yellow clover.
Prairie primroses, or gumbo lilies, with their fragile
white-pink blossom, bloom during wet seasons; wild yellow
sweet peas, blue bells, prickley pear cactus, wild roses,
sunflowers and dozens of other wild flowers all dot the
landscape with color and fragrance in their due season. In
dry years the semi-desert can assume a gray-tannish
pallor, that is unbroken. Herds of antelope mingle with
cattle. Prairie dog towns are scattered throughout the
plains. The yip and wail of the coyote can be heard
morning and evening and mirades of birds break the
stillness with song. Predators, (especially the fox which
have become numerous in recent years) a busy highway, plus
easier access and a high intensity of hunters are taking
their toll on the ones numerous sage grouse, that old
timers tell about "flying over in bunches by the
thousands." Rattle snakes are ever present.
It is a country that can fool one. The seemingly flat plains
are broken up by rocks, hidden washouts and steep coulees
that break off into the river bottom lands.
The deeply eroded breaks (called mauvais terres or bad lands
by the early French-Canadian rivermen) are covered with
juniper, ponderosa pine and some fir. This timber has
little commercial value. It is valuable as browse and
protection for wildlife and cattle, and in the early days
provided logs for homes and firewood for homesteaders and
steamboats, and posts to build fences.
Along the creeks that head in the mountains, grow willows,
wild fruit trees and bushes of chokecherry, service
berries (June berries or Saskatoons), raspberries and
currants. In and near the mountains are poplar, birch,
pine and fir trees.
Along the Missouri River are two distinct geological
formations, The gray colored Judith formation and the
darker Bear Paw shale. Slides are common in the fragile
Bear Paw shale. Barren gray, lumpy soil deposits of
bentonite are found throughout the entire area. It was
formed from decomposing volcanic ash and is composed
largely of clay particles.
The badlands are the rugged massive remnants of eons of
erosion. When the great glaciers of the ice age spread
over northern Montana, the Missouri River was forced from
its original channel (north of the Little Rockies where
the Milk River now flows, 60 miles away) and moved
southward. The present channel was formed by the river
cutting along the face of the ice shield. As the glacier
receded the resulting streams that flowed across the
fragile soil formed the steep coulees you see today, the
trademark of the breaks. The country is prime wildlife
habitat and hunting is a major recreation of the area.
Along the river bottom grow huge cottonwoods. The large
fertile lands once grew tons of alfalfa and seed and other
produce. Much of the land that once was prime game bird
habitat is now covered by the waters of Ft. Peck Lake.
Another animal that old timers told of, was of the
fan-tail deer which became extinct with the rising waters.
It was a very small animal, weighed around 50 pounds and
had small compact antlers. There are a few remaining who
were fortunate to see this tiny deer.
While the land itself is virtually unchanged, the river
channel has changed considerably even in recent history.
What once was bottom land on the north side of the river
is now river channel and new bottomlands with new growth
have built up on the south side, and visa verse. The still
waters resulting from the Ft. Peek dam is slowing down
this process.
Buffalo hunters, trappers and early settlers, and probably
the adverse conditions of the early 1900's, all but
depleted wildlife. WWII was a boon for game. There were
good years with very little hunting done and game
increased and moved into new areas. Elk, deer and geese
thrive on the grainfields that border the breaks and favor
the fresh artesian water, over reservoirs.
The river has many species of fish: catfish, walleyes, drum,
northern pike, sturgeon, sauger, gold eyes, carp, buffalo
fish, river trout, ling; but the biggest prize to pull
from its waters is the paddlefish, a prehistoric creature,
with no true bone development and a long paddle like nose
that extends about 1/3 of its body length This paddle is
used to stir the mud at the bottom of the river in search
for food. It averages about 40 pounds in weight but can
exceed 140 pounds. Portions of the fish are a gourmet
delight. A female can yield 10 lbs. of choice caviar.
Hunting, fishing, boating and floating the river are all
prime drawing cards for visitors and natives alike.
By the 1880's the river had become a major transportation
corridor for a flourishing fur trade. With the discovery
of gold in the mountains the Missouri was used to carry
supplies to the mining camps, and gold and furs out. The
first steamboat to pass the UL Bend area was the
Chippewa--in 1859.
The Crooked Creek area north of Roy, from highway 191, east
to Valentine is rich with fossils and pieces of petrified
wood, which can be found everywhere. The region is
considered one of the most important in the world for the
research on the last dinosaurs. The entire area was
covered by the Creataceous Sea, some 60 to 150 million
years ago.
The fossils unearthed in the breaks date back 80 million
years. In the 1960's, in an area above Ft. Peck, the lower
molar of what appeared to be that of the oldest primate in
the world was found. The discovery pushed the evidence of
primates back about 5 million years. Since then
researchers have discovered thousands of teeth and bone
fragments.
Ann McCollum, wife of former manager of the CMR, James
McCollum, discovered the fossil of a mosasaurs in the area
between highway 191 and Wilder in the 1980's. It is on
display at the Museum of the Rockies in
Bozeman.
The Roy-Valentine area has many specimens of baculites;
strange creatures that lived in the sea 60 to 120 million
years ago. Sections of this creature were called buffalo
rock by the Indians and were carried as a good luck piece.
It is estimated that 12 varieties of dinosaurs inhabited this
region. The remains of prehistoric frogs, salamanders,
turtles, crocodiles, snails, clams and birds have been
found.
The indian was once master of this beautiful, harsh domain.
It was his hunting grounds. From it, in its season, came
his food supply, his clothing supply and his lodging. It
is no wonder, then, that with the advent of white man who
took from him his way of life, that Indian uprisings
became common.
It is through this country in the summer of 1877 that Chief
Joseph led his people, the Nez Perce, on their last
desperate flight for freedom. They came through and around
by the Judith Mountains and Black Butte and passed near
the present site of Roy and went on to the Cow Island
crossing on the Missouri River and headed north for
Canada, only to be defeated by the U.S. Army near the Bear
Paws.
Black Butte was once a favored Indian look-out, for either
locating the herds of buffalo or for keeping watch on
their enemies.
Arrow heads and teepee rings, for the lucky hunter, can be
found near the old camp and buffalo kill sites all
throughout the entire area. As national historic items
they are not to be disturbed.
Indians who inhabited this region were mainly the nomadic
tribes of Assiniboins (a branch of the Sioux --a tough
breed of warrior-hunters), Crows, Chippewas and the
half-breed Metis. It is reported that as early as the
1830's and 1840's the Metis were hired as guides for
trappers. The Metis are of Cree Indian and French
ancestry. They came here in 1879, apparently looking for
better hunting grounds. They are, in part, responsible for
the heritage of our area. The families of the Doneys,
LaFountains, LaRocques and Gardipees came at this time.
These families settled in and near Roy --other units of
the families were the first permanent residents of what is
now Lewistown.
After the demise of the buffalo, came the herds of southern
cattle to fatten on the hard grasses that grow and cure in
eastern Montana. This grass has feed value until moisture
is received to rot it down, sometimes up to three years.
These early cattle were used to feed not only the
population back east, but the miners, railroad builders
and the Indians, after the buffalo were gone.
The first cattle were brought into the area in the late
1870's and early 80's. These were mostly longhorns, driven
over dusty trails from the Texas Panhandle and they
dominated the early ranges. After the fall roundups the
cattle were trailed to Fallon or Custer or to some point
on the Northern Railroad for shipment. By the early 1900's
the ranges were dotted with cattle. A scene not soon
forgotten, were the annual roundups from a range area of
50 to 100 miles and the brandings and sorting that went
on. In 1884 cattle fattened on the Montana ranges were
bringing the highest prices on the Chicago market.
A man named Chamberlain is thought to have brought in the
first herd. Chamberlain Creek north of Cone Butte was
named for him. He had a cabin there, built for a line
camp, that several homesteaders mention camping in when
they came to homestead.
One of the large early ranches was the Davis, Hauser and
Stuart -- DHS. It began when Granville Stuart ran 5,000
head of longhorns into Central Montana. The Anderson Ranch
was originally settled by Reese Anderson. The Burnett
Ranch was originally headquarters for the DHS.
James Fergus came in with cattle and settled on Armells. The
Horse Shoe Bar Ranch had its origin in the original
properties established by H. P. (Governor) Brooks of
Helena. The ranch was developed into one of the finest
stock ranges in Central Montana. In 1889, the property and
all the cattle were purchased by Oscar Stephens. In 1898,
W.D. Deaton, a colorful oldtimer of the era, was foreman
of the Horse Shoe Bar spread. The Horse Shoe Bar Ranch
headquarters was located where the Lester Sluggetts now
live. Murray Deaton's name, (son of W.D.) is featured
prominently in the early history of cattle on the range
land surrounding Roy.
In 1883 the number of sheep counted in the Armells vicinity
numbered 33,315. Most sheep came in from Oregon. William
Fergus arrived a few years after James and built up a
sizeable sheep herd on Box EIder. Oscar Stephens was
located at the foot of Black Butte (the Red Barn Ranch now
owned and operated by Gary and Toni Keller). In February
of 1884 it was reported that the 6100 head of wethers he
drove in from Oregon the previous fall were all fat and
would yield 8 Ibs. of wool at the next shearing, Blanchard
& Parrott (or Parcot), Wm. Fergus on Box EIder, Chandler
and Chamberlain of the Cone Butte area and W. H. Peck were
all reported to have sizeable flocks of sheep. A local
woolgrowers organization was formed in the late 1880's.
By 1886 horse ranches were beginning to be prominent in
Central Montana. James Fergus & Son began the Horse Ranch,
which was their horse range.
Ranching had its ups and downs, then as now. Cattle rustling
was prevalent. The year 1907 was an exceptionally good
grass year, the "grass was stirrup high", enough feed for
two or more years. Then in 1910 it was extremely dry and
fires burned from the Judith to the Musselshell,
blackening thousands of acres.
Cattlemen still dominate the range of northeastern Fergus
County and though their numbers are getting fewer as more
land is set aside for wildlife and recreation and plowed
up for wheat and government programs, the cattle business
still plays a major role in the area's economy. Today,
instead of Longhorns, quality
Hereford, Angus and crossbreds dot the
range.
The area is still primitive; wildlife abounds, ranches are
secluded, but where once only the eagles soared, jet
airplanes of all sizes break the quietness with their
sonic booms. It has become a training flight area for our
National defense system.
CARROLL #2
DAWSON COUNTY MONTANA TERRITORY
by Marie Webb Zahn
POSTOFFICE:
April 15, 1880 to June 22, 1880
May 26, 1881 to November 28, 1882
Joseph Kipp and James W.
Schultz leave Fort Benton for Carroll to erect a trading
post for the I.G. Baker Company in the "last of the
buffalo country", where some years previous, Matt Carroll
and Colonel C.A. Broadwater attempted the overland freight
route to Helena--the Carroll Trail.
Three four horse teams loaded with trade goods were sent
overland while Kipp, Guardipee and Schultz boarded the
Steamboat "Red Cloud" (an I.G. Baker Company boat). They
tied up on the upper end of the bottom, a sagebrush flat
and a twenty foot cutbank skirting the water. Long John
Forgy and his bullwackers were already getting out
building logs from a large grove of cottonwoods on the
lower end of the bottom. None of the Broadwater-Carroll
buildings remain. Augustus Tyler had a small log building
on the extreme upper end where he carried on trade with
the woodhawks located here who furnished wood for the
steam boats. By September the first, the trading post was
built. The main building was 100' x 40', partitioned 25' x
40' trade room with two counters and shelves in back for
groceries and dry goods. Behind this building another
three room building was built for kitchen and dining room,
cooks quarters as well as several employees. Kipp and
Schultz had their bed in the trade building. The
warehouse, the greater part of the post held $6,000 worth
of stock and trade goods. A small building was built to
house sixty barrels of blue-ribbon whiskey brought
up-river from St. Louis. This was not stored in the post
because of being in trouble with the U.S. Marshall as this
post was for the purpose of Indian trade. Hewie was in
charge and when Indians ordered the liquor he received an
order from the post. Another small building was built for
smoking buffalo tongues. This completed the trading post.
North and south, the plains were black with herds of buffalo.
Daily they came to water at the river and returned to the
plains to graze. In mating season, the bulls made a deep
moaning sound that rumbled like thunder, so different from
domestic bulls. Sometimes they would come in at a run and
charge out into the river--often crossing and going to
graze on the plains on the north side. When stampeded, a
herd would wipe out everything in their path. This was
something to guard against when out hunting.
Indians began to arrive to hunt and trade, Blackfeet, then
the Bloods and next Red Rivers and Crees with Louis Riel's
French Crees.
Five dollars was the price given for a head and tail cow
buffalo robe. A family would bring from five to ten robes.
The man would count the $1.00 brass checks and keep a few
for himself, giving the rest to the women who purchased
mainly sugar, tea, flour, baking powder, cloth for gowns,
beads, thread and needles. The men bought tobacco,
cartridges plus whiskey. Many men did not drink.
The fur buyers
came to the post on the first boat in th spring with Chas.
Conrad, I.G. Baker; Thomas Bosier for T.C. Powers &
Brother; A.E. Rogers, Broadwater & Pepin Co. and John
Goeway for a Boston firm. Daily, these men sat in a row,
with pencil and paper, counting and inspecting each robe
and marking No. 1 and No. 2 according to color and
softness of tanning, seeing both the fur side and the
flesh side of the robe. This took an entire week to go
through the 4,111 robes. Goeway was the highest bidder at
$7.11 per robe. Kipp's check was in the amount of
$29,229.21. Deer, elk, antelope, wolf, beaver, fox and
other hides were also sold. I.G. Baker and Company bought
more than 1,000 buffalo tongues which were smoked at 40¢
each. Some thousands of pounds of dried buffalo meat and
pemmican went to a trader at Standing Rock Agency.
The 1880-1881 winter was a successful season.
Big-Nose George and his gang of horse thieves were camped
near in the breaks and came to the post for supplies. One
of this gang shot a young Cree boy as he left the post,
this ended their trade. A Cree was sent to Colonel
Bartlett with a note from Schultz to take action against
the murderer, but to no avail. Bartlett says that he had
no control over civil cases and it was in the hands of
Sheriff Healey at Fort Benton. It was out of the question
to reach him.
Eighteen Eighty One-Eighty Two saw the passing of the herds.
During the summer Kipp went to Fort Benton and brought
down a big supply of trade goods for the winter. By August
we were aware of big changes which would greatly affect
the trade. The Cree decided to no longer mingle with the
Bloods and Blackfeet and moved down river in the area at
the mouth of the Musselshell. However, they wished a
trading post be set up there, and so Kipp readied about a
thousand dollars worth of trade goods and a camp outfit
and dispatched a French-Cree employee, Archie Amiott and
another man to carry on the business. The Blackfeet and
most of the Bloods suddenly decided to return to their
Canadian reservations to collect $5.00 per head from that
government. They could not be convinced that they could
earn a better living hunting here.
November, when the buffalo hides begin to be prime, Kipp sent
Eli Guardipee out to hunt and Schultz joined him as trade
was slow. Many exciting times were spent with their fast
horses chasing buffalo, first on the south side of the
river and after the river ice was frozen solid, Gardipee
hunted the plains on the north side.
The Crees and Riel's Red River mixed bloods were good hunters
and their wives good tanners. They were hunting hard this
winter to earn money to buy guns and ammunition for the
coming war they were planning in Canada for lands they lay
claim to. By March the last of the blankets were traded to
the Cree and a trip was made with saddle horse and sleds
to the post at the mouth of the Judith River to replenish
the blanket supply. The fifty blankets lasted only three
days when they came back to Carroll.
With spring came the steamboats, puffing upstream and from
Boston, the fur buyer, John Goeway. He was again the high
bidder for the robes, 2,130 robes at $7.35 each. Charlie
Conrad, I.G. Baker & Company bought tons of dried meat and
pemmican as well as elk, deer, antelope and other skins.
Several weeks after the fur buyers left they all set out for
Fort Benton leaving Long John Forgy in charge of the post.
Kipp and Schultz boarded the "Helena" and the other men
brought the bull teams and horses on the long overland
trail. This was the end of the buffalo trade, a sad day to
see the demise of these animals from the plains on which
the Indians needs demanded.
GOOD BUFFALO
HORSE WAS WORTH A LOT
by Conrad Anderson
Lewistown
News-Argus -- December 24, 1967
Joe LaFountain told of
the buffalo hunting days of Eli Gardipee and others. This
was in the 1870's and '80's, when the white men wished to
subdue the Indians by slaughtering the buffalo, thereby
forcing the Indians to stay on their respective
reservations and accept the white men's terms.
Eli worked mostly in Roy, Grass Range and Judith Basin county
for a hide company. Eli, an excellent rifle shot, was
employed for the purpose of killing the animals.
A good buffalo horse was worth a lot of money for he was an
exceptional horse. The horse must be fleet of foot, must
be able to run many miles at top speed and must be well
broken so a man could shoot a rifle from his back.
Flour was selling for $100 a sack at Rocky Point and most of
it went to feed the buffalo horses. This was done by
wetting the hay and sprinkling it with flour. Flour took
the place of oats as there was not any oats raised here in
those days. The buffalo hunters located the herds and
started shooting. The herd would run with the hunters in
pursuit. Riding at their side, the hunters would kill as
many as they could.
Men would follow up to start the skinning necessary for the
next procedure. Others would follow with teams and wagons.
Teams were used to pull the hide from the buffalo carcass.
The buffalo hides were then hauled to the river points for
drying and shipment east.
Buffalo hides, for a long time, brought only one dollar
apiece. Later, as they became scarce, the price went up.
Mining History
MINING - COAL - OIL SPECULATION
by Illa Willmore
Prospectors mined Black Butte for precious
metals, mine shafts dot the mountain side. Coal was also
mined, as reported on February 14, 1933 in the Democrat
News--Roy Bureau:
A number of men are still
digging coal on the Butte and several are through for
the winter, having gotten out a good supply. Some of the
coal is being sold in Roy. It is estimated that around a
hundred ton have been taken out since fall and it has
meant something worthwhile to many families who have
gotten their entire winter's supply of coal for the
digging of it. This coal would not be of commercial
value and is on a school section, but it comes in handy
for the farmers who are willing to dig it. One man can
dig about a thousand pounds a day.
Deposits of coal were also found on Coal Hill, east of
Roy, and in the Valley View area.
A mining claim of Pick Handle Bourke's lies somewhere
on what is now Ed Styer's Ranch.
A fellow by the name of Kies found $I0,000 worth of gold
somewhere along the river, on the west side of
Musselshell. He went to town, got a couple of fellows to
join him in a mining venture and they started back for the
mine. Enroute they were attacked and killed by Indians
except for Kies Indian wife. The claim has never been
located.
Mining paid well in those early days: $8.00 per day for a
miner; $4.00 per day for laborers and timbermen and $2.00
per day for cowboys and sheepherders. Cowboys made the
best miners. They worked cheap all summer, went broke in
the fall and had to go to work in winter to survive. Most
prospectors often had tarnished pasts and were rough
characters.
A story told by a rancher living in the area north of Roy ...
In the winter of 1949
a man walked into our place carrying a small leather
case. He asked to stay all night. The following morning
we gave him a ride, as far as the old King Trail, a mile
away, in the hay sled. He started up the road but only
went a few feet before he put the case down and switched
hands. He did this several times while still within our
sight. I remarked to Dad, "It sure must be heavy." Dad
replied that he had lifted it the previous night to move
it out of the way and that it felt like gold it was so
heavy.
Ten years later I told the story to another fellow, Come to
find out, at that time some gold bars were stolen from a
mine at Zortman and no one could figure out where they
went. They could not figure out how anyone could have
gotten out with them, they never thought of someone
walking out with that heavy a load, much less crossing
the river. The description of the man they figured took
the gold and the man at our house fit. When he left our
place he was never seen again -- by anybody in this
area.
Gold mining
became small scale for several years but then in the late
70's a new surge began and the mines at Zortman, Landusky,
Kendall and in the Judiths are booming once more. Gold
production yields at the mines in 1988 figured in the
millions of dollars, per quarter. Many local men are
employed by the mining companys.
OIL
Ever since the
early homestead days the possibility of oil beneath the
surface of this country has been hinted at. Several test
wells have been dug. Most have been capped and the rigs
are pulled up and gone before anyone knows what has
happened, leaving behind an aura of mystery and
speculation as to what they found. They never tell.
Periodically a speculator will come in and lease the oil
rights for a few years from local land owners. Usually
nothing else happens. But it all keeps alive the dream of
an oil strike.... someday!
CONE BUTTE
DISTRICT
by Dolores Rife
Records
show that gold and silver and other minerals were
discovered and mined in 1888 and the early 1900's in the
Cone Butte district. The town of Roy lies about 10 miles
north of Cone Butte, a mountain which arises from the fiat
land and is part of the Judith Mountains. An article from
a local newspaper, titled Cone Butte News, stated what the
local miners were doing.
Straight Tunnel Chris
Fassold is laying off and recruiting up at present.
Bamboo Dick Gies will
commence work in earnest on the Cave lode in the spring.
Pretty Dick Hanson is
drifting on his claim, "The Bull of the Woods." He has
four feet of line ore.
Lime Horse Jack Leanord
is traveling toward China on his lead on Elk Mountain.
He has a fine prospect.
Contact Billy Maurer is
still running for the contact on Silver Reef. He is in
about 250 feet and expects to strike it soon.
Amalgam Hoppy and and
Porphritic Jim Mitchell are sinking on the Birmlnghan.
They are down 25 feet in lead carbonate ore.
Graball Charlie Williams
and Give-a-dam Tom Burk are running a tunnel on the
Silver Crescent. They think they have struck it rich.
Sour Dough Charlie
Stephens is drifting on the lead. He has about one and
one half feet of $35 ore. Charlie will not sell for less
than a million.
Telluride Vincent Gies is
drifting on a small vein of ore in the Bertha. It runs
$I75 in gold and silver. He is sacking ore for shipping.
Gold Bug George Manning
is tunneling on the New Chicago He is in 60 ft. The vein
is four feet wide, six inches of $180 ore and three and
one half feet of $15 ore.
Black Jack Murphy is
running a tunnel on the Phoenix. He is about 80 ft. and
within 10 feet of the lead. He expects to strike a
bonanza in about 10 days.
Hurricane Craig Coughty and
Hard Rock George Cunningham are sinking on the Jocko.
They are down 88 ft. The lead is 12 feet wide, with
about seven feet of $27 ore.
From a
December 25 issue 1890 of a local paper it stated:
"Richard Gies of
Maiden took out a Patent on his mine in the Cone Butte
district. The property is known as "The Cave" lode, and
is owned jointly by Richard and Vincent Gies. There are
three tunnels on the property, one of which passes along
the ore body for a distance of 200 feet. The ore assays
from $12 to $26 in silver and about 70 per cent lead. A
shipment of a car load of ore was made first of the
month to Newark, New Jersey, from which returns have not
yet been received. Mr. Gies has been offered a good
figure for the property but says it is not for sale.
Those who have seen the mine say it is a great bonanza."
From the
newspaper "Great Falls Leader" they wrote:
"The Cone Butte district is
attracting considerable attention and will show up well
in the future. Among those interested in the district is
Vincent Gies and his claims join the M.K. on the west
and joins the Voltaire. (At this time the Voltair was
owned by James Fergus.) Sten Hansen has a claim next to
the Voltair. Oscar and Charles Stephens have about 10
claims, which includes claims on Red Mountain. James
Murphy has 10 claims and Bernard Neisigh has two claims.
An effort will be made this summer to interest
capitalists in the district and it is thought that by
the judicious use of a little money, some good mines
will be uncovered."
This article
was written April 11, 1900.
June 11, 1891. George A
Cunningham, of Cone Butte, passed through town en route
to Scottsdale, Penn. Mr. Cunningham has been prospecting
in the Judiths since May 1881 and has some valuable
prospects in the Cone Butte district. He says he will
put a good portion of his money into mines in the Judith
Mountains.
June 18, 1891. O. S.
Hinsdale, of Moorhead, Minn,, was in town several days
during the past week taking preliminary steps for the
formation of what will be known as the Cone Butte Mining
Company. The object of the company will be the
development of the Golden Jack No. 1 and Golden Jack No.
2.
February 4, 1892. (Mines had
their share of accidents then too.) The mine belonging
to Dick Hanson in the Cone Butte district and known as
"The Bull of the Woods" caught fire and destroyed the
building containing the boiler. They had reached a depth
of 107 ft. in the shaft, and had only three more feet to
sink before crosscutting when the disaster occurred. The
loss is a serious one at this season of the year.
New owners
have taken over these mines. It is known that the early
day prospector found a lot of the ore deposits that are
being mined today. There is still much gold to be
recovered in the Judith and North Moccasin Mountains.
Research has it that the gold deposits were formed
millions of years ago from thermal flows, bringing the
gold up with the hot fluids.
Problems between environmentalists and industries and labor
and management have made it difficult to start new mines
but it is hopeful that well-managed, environmentally-aware
and community-minded mining operations can be developed.
Mining will take a big step toward attracting the new job,
creating mining development that Montana needs.
GAS WELLS NEAR
FERGUS
In 1920, California Oil
Company drilled seven wells above Landru's. All the wells
except two were plugged since they were looking for oil
not the gas that they found. Will Landru hauled water to
the wells with a team of horses and a big steel water tank
mounted on a wagon while they were drilling.
Henry Edwards used one of two wells not plugged. It was not
cased, but he used it for eight or ten years before it
finally caved in completely.
The well on the Landru property was drilled to 3400 feet, hit
gas at 1380 feet, with 425 pounds of pressure coming out
of the well. It was cased and is still
being used in all Bob Landru's buildings and Doug Landru's
house and shop.
MISSOURI RIVER
STEAMBOATS
by Marie Zahn
It is stated in the Time Life book, "The
Rivermen", that 700 different steamboats plied the
Missouri between 1819 and after the disappearance of the
paddle-wheel traffic after 1900; of these, some 300 were
destroyed in service and left their bones in the river,
due to weather related accidents, snags that pierced their
hulls, reefs, sandbars and some were the result of human
error, such as the "Chippewa'. She was set on fire by her
rowdy crew in a drinking session; and when the fire
ignited barrels of powder stored in her hold, the ship was
blown to smithereens.
With the gold strikes in 1863, Captain Joseph LaBarge went into
opposition to the American Fur Company and his firm of
LaBarge, Harkness and Company advertised passage to "the
mountains", which drew heavy loads of passengers, bound
for the gold fields. The "Emilie" and "Shreveport',
LaBarge boats, with 400 tons of cargo and 300 passengers,
the first wave of emigrants which came to settle Montana,
raced up the flood swollen river that spring, against the
American Fur Company steamers, "Key West" and "Spread
Eagle", beating them by three days.
The T. C. Power and I. G. Baker businesses in Fort Benton,
together, bought the steamboat, "Benton" in 1875, which
was called the Benton Packet Company, the Block "P" Line,
(a box with the letter P in the center, their symbol, was
made clearly visable mounted between the upper smokestacks
of their boats). The Coulson & Peck Linc, called the
Missouri Transportation Company and the Kountz Line were
stiff competitors, Power expanded his business to carry
overland freight and passengers and was known as Benton
Transportation, which operated in conjunction with the
steamboats, Captain Grant Marsh, a fabled Missouri River
boatman, was hired by them to pilot their pride steamer,
"The Helena". Power had become the owner of several more
steamboats and thus was able to underbid the Coulson Line
with their diversified system. The usual up-river trip
from St. Louis to Fort Benton was made in 60 to 65 days.
The average fare was $150 in 1867 and some 1,500 persons
reached Montana in these vessels. Much of the mining
machinery was transported by boat to Fort Benton for the
35 quartz mills in this area.
Intriguing names were given these river giants, to name a few: IDA
STOCKDALE, MINER, CHIPPEWA, BENTON, WELCOME, FLORENCE,
ONLY CHANCE, FAR WEST, WESTERN MARY MCDONALD, FONTANELLE,
NELLIE PECK, SILVER CITY, MARION, EMILIE, DACOTAH,
SHREVEPORT, DES METT, SPREAD EAGLE, LUELLA, BATCHELOR,
JOSEPHINE, SILVER BOW, PENINAH, ROSEBUD and the WYOMING
which was 265 feet long, the largest to dock at Fort
Benton. In 1882, it carried 300 head of cattle belonging
to Asa Samples to market at Omaha, Nebraska. Captains
Joseph LaBarge, Grant Marsh, and Daniel Maratta of the
Fontanelle, one of the fastest boats on the river, were
only three of the famous rivermen.
The treacherous nature of the upper Missouri was shown when the
"Marion", commanded by Captain Abe Wolf, went hopelessly
aground at Pablo Rapids in 1864. Captain Marsh brought the
Luella down frown Fort Benton, rescued the passengers and
freight, salvaged the machinery and returned to Fort
Benton where the unfortunate vessel's equipment was sold.
The beautiful Grand Union Hotel, Fort Benton, one of
Montana's oldest hotels, opened for business 2 November
1882 by Stephen Sptizley and company. It was built on the
west end of the levee, a three story brick structure, made
from 500,000 red and yellow bricks from the local kiln.
It's construction cost was $50,000 plus $150,600 for
furnishings. This was the most luxurious hotel in the West
and catered to river and overland travelers, supplying the
fineries of Eastern civilization.
"All trails lead to Fort Benton" was a familiar statement. The
community was the anchor of the Mullan Road to Walla
Walla; the road to Helena and other gold mining towns that
branched off from the Mullan Road. The Whoop Up Trail led
to Canada and Fort McLeod, with much commerce carried over
this route to the north. The Fisk Wagon Road brought
settlers from St. Paul and North Dakota through northern
Montana and was another important overland trail.
Fort Benton became the commercial center of Montana at this period,
with the Missouri River, the main avenue of travel and
transportation from the East and
boomed in the early 1860's. Some emigrants
came in via the Bozeman trail and north from Casper. Some
came from the Pacific Coast, but to be sure, most of the
miners and their supplies came up this river route and
then overland only the last hundred or so miles to the
placer mines. Shipments of gold, furs and hides, wool and
livestock, passengers, the military people as well as mail
went down the river to the Eastern ports.
DAREDEVIL
STEAMBOAT RACED
Missouri pulots
were a hot-blooded breed and engaged in races, partly
because fast boats won lucrative freight contracts and
while mostly on a friendly basis, some became a
no-holds-barred, imperiling steamboat hulls and passengers
lives.
Twenty-nine-year-old Samuel Hauser, prospector, heading for the
Montana gold fields experienced such a duel. (Hauser
became Montana's Territorial Governor, 1885.)
June 6, 1862, this race began as the "Emilie" and the "Spread
Eagle" left Ft. Berthold, heading for Fort Benton. Hauser
was aboard the Emilie. Gathering steam to the last notch,
the quaking boat passed the Spread Eagle. (There was poor
regulation of steam power and some of the pilots did not
regard the danger.) With much applause from the deck, the
Spread Eagle built a new head of steam and charged to the
lead. Emilie's pilot encouraged his engingeer to put on
more power and soon she drew abreast and they held this
pace for more than an hour. On reaching a point where the
river split by a towhead (an island submerged by high
spring water), Spread Eagle veered to starboard, following
the wide-looping main channel. Emilie's pilot chose the
narrow chute to port-side, in hopes the high water lever
would make the short cut passable.
Spread Eagle's pilot suddenly saw the short route ahead of Emilie
was navagable. Rather than let her take the lead, he threw
the wheel over and rammed Spread Eagle's bow into Emilie,
deliberately trying to disable her. The impact was
dangerously near Emilie's boilers, but she recieved only
light damage, however the two boats were locked together.
Emilie's pilot was so enraged that he let go the wheel and
snatched his gun and would have shot Spread Eagle's pilot
had not his son stopped him. The boats drifted, while
passengers and crews exchanged threats and curses.
Fortunately, the two boats separated on their own accord,
as related by Hauser, and Emilie's engineer turned on the
last pound of steam causing her to glide by and Emilie
reached Fort Benton on June 17th, four days ahead of her
rival. This race proved the fleetness of Emilie and earned
her owner a big share of the river trade which more than
compensated for the damage done in the race.
STEAMBOAT AND
WOOD HAWKS
by Con Anderson
In the year
1914 the U.S. Government was still spending money to keep
the Missouri River open for the large stern wheel boats
that went up to Ft. Benton, before the railroads were
built. Why the river was kept open for river traffic this
late is a mystery to me.
The Gros Ventre was the name of the stern wheel paddle boat I
saw in 1914. It raised the cottonwood trees that were in
the river. Men sawed the trees from the root portion and
let them float down river. Now, there are many of these
trees lodged in the river as snags.
Crews still sawed the trees along the banks of the river, although
steam boat traffic had stopped a long time before this.
These boats or ships used wood for fuel power and many of
the old timers I knew cut pitch pine for the riverboats.
They were called "wood hawks".
THE NAMES AND
LEGENDS OF LANDMARKS, TRAILS AND STREAMS
by I. Willmore
Armells
Creek
Supposedly received its name from a French trapper in
the early 1860's. Armells also has been known by a
couple of other names. Lewis and Clark on their journey
up the Missouri River called it South Mountain Creek.
The Indians named it "It Crush Them Creek", for some
women who were digging for red paint in the soil along
the creek and were killed when a high cut bank cared in
on them.
Bear
Creek -- by Sam Sherman
A cowboy called
Panhandle Bob, who came to Montana with a trail herd
from Texas, was working for Spud Stephens and was also a
wolfer and a trapper. He would set traps for wolves in
their dens in the fall and in the spring would hunt the
dens when the pups were being born.
He was camped near the Red Barn Ranch, a few
miles south of Roy, when he saw a grizzly
bear at the head of the creek that runs past the ranch.
The bear was in some timber and was eating berries. Bob
tied his horse to a tree and slipped up close so he
could get a good shot. As he fired the bear came at him,
standing on its hind legs. Bob fired five shots at the
bear's heart, emptying his rifle. The bear came over the
log and clawed Bob who pulled out his .45 pistol and
stuck it in the bear's mouth and fired one shot which
broke the bears jaw. The bear dragged Bob over the log
and stood over him. He crawled out from under the bear
and got to his horse, and rode to Gilt Edge where a
'red-light' woman bandaged his wounds and took care of
him. There were no doctors or nurses in Gilt Edge at
that time.
When Bob related what had happened no one would believe him.
They thought he had been in a fight with some Indians.
The creek where this happened was named Bear Creek,
after his story.
Blood Creek--There
are two Blood Creeks in our area. One is just north of
Roy. The other is in the Valentine area. There are two
legends concerning the naming of Blood Creek (Valentine
area). One is that once it was the scene of a great
Indian War; so much blood was shed that the creek ran
red with it. The other is that at one time it was the
site of big buffalo kills and again the creek ran red
with blood.
Button Butte--It
reminded early arrivals of a shoe button. It is in the
Little Crooked area.
Elevator Ridge--Elevator
Ridge lies in the breaks country north of Roy, between
Wilder and Sand Creek. In early years there was a house
on it that would mirage and look just like a grain
elevator from a distance.
Ford Creek --is
supposed to have derived its name from a cattle rustler,
by the name of Ford, who was hung by vigilantes from a
cottonwood tree along its source.
Haystack Butte--It
sets near the old 79 Trail and resembles a haystack from
a distance.
Indian Butte--An
old Indian lookout and campground site.
Jones Island--Named
for Sam Jones who inhabited the island. Jones Island, up
until the terrible Missouri River ice jam and flood of
1947 was home of the fan-tail deer.
King Trail and King Island--The
north road out of Roy is the old King Trail. Highway
191, from marker 78 north to the top of the Missouri
river hill more or less follows the trail, sections of
it are still visible from the highway. The King Trail
wound its way through the breaks and down to King
Island.
Little Rockies--The
Indian name was Mahkwiyi Stukists meaning Wolf
Mountains.
Missouri
River--Called
Big River by the Indians.
Musselshell River--The
Indians had two names which they called the Musselshell.
One was "On The Far Side Bear River" named to
distinguish it from the Bear River (Marias) and the
other name was "Dried Meat River."
Rattlesnake Butte--South
of Roy and slightly west of Black Butte. So named
because of the high density of rattlesnakes found there.
Saddle Butte--On
the old King Trail about halfway between the river and
Roy on the
1
west side of highway
1191.
A high point, from which one can see for many miles in
all directions.
Whisker Coulee--Named
for Whisker Davis who had a horse camp there. It is in
the Little Crooked area.
79 Trail--This
trail took its name from the 79 Ranch on the upper
Musselshell Supplies for the ranch were unloaded off the
steamboats at the mouth of the Musselshell River and the
trail wound its way through Valentine and over the
Judiths to the ranch near Harlowtown.
Chain Buttes--So
named because they are a series of buttes linked
together, in the Valentine area.
Chimney Crossing--is
on Crooked Creek about a half mile from the head of
Whisker Coulee. A log cabin used to be there. The
chimney which is half brick and half stone is still
standing.
Coal Hill--Named
because of the deposits of coal found on it.
Cone Butte--This
butte, shaped like a cone, lies on the north side of the
Judiths.
Cottonwood Crossing--is
straight south of Button Butte. There use to be a huge
grove of cottonwood trees there but in the late 40's
beaver dammed up a hole in the creek and cut many of
them down. The grave of a cowboy is on the ridge just
south of the crossing. It is marked with rock and
cactus.
Crooked
Creek --From a November 21, 1889 issue of the Mineral
Argus --
"Crooked Creek is very
properly named, Nothing will compare with it for
crookedness. A preachers son, a bank cashier, or a
Montanan returning board are all straight compared with
it. If Bunyon's Pilgrim had been compelled to travel the
windings of this stream before reaching paradise, he
would have given up in despair. Nothing but Sheriff
Sullivan's skill as a guide led the hunting party out of
its entangling meshes and then all were a trifle cross
eyed when camp was made. No more Crooked Creek for us."
Crooked Creek originates in coulees northeast of Roy and
flows eastward to the Musselshell River. On maps today
Crooked Creek is listed as the Sacajawea River.
According to a study made by a 'history student' in an
eastern state, Lewis and Clark named the creek after
their Indian guide. In the 80's a big ceremony to
officially name the creek to Sacajawea River was held.
Many dignitaries attended. However, to natives and old
timers it's still Crooked Creek and to local students of
history data, the
description Lewis and Clark gave of
Sacajawea River in no way resemble Crooked Creek, which
normally only flows during the wet season.
Drag
Creek--
The
original name was Draggin' Ass Creek. It was so full of
alkaline that if one drank too much of it they drug
...!!
CARROLL #1
AND CARROLL TRAIL
by Marie Zahn
The Carroll
Trail was 225 miles overland from Carroll to Helena.
Beginning at Carroll on the south side of the Missouri
River, the Carroll Trail struck out south westerly
around the north and west of the Judith Mountains, to
Camp Lewis, left the Judith Basin at Judith Gap,
skirting the southern edge of the Little Belt Mountains
and crossing the Missouri River at Canyon Ferry, ending
in Helena.
1870:
E.G. Maclay
masterminded the operation of the Carroll Landing and
the Carroll Trail named for Mathew Carroll with Chas.
A. Broadwater, a leading Helena financier, a partner
in the undertaking. The Treaty of 1855 gave the land
south of the Missouri River to the Blackfeet Tribe,
through which the Carroll Trail was routed. President
Ulysses S. Grant revoked this treaty in 1873 and the
Crow Tribe negotiated to trade their Yellowstone lands
for one-half million acres of the Judith Basin in
January of 1874.
General Alfred H. Terry dispatched infantry companies to
guard the new route. One company at Camp Lewis
(Lewistown), one company at Carroll, a small number
guarding the road station at Box EIder, two infantry
and one cavalry company at the forks of the
Musselshell and two companies garrisoned at Camp
Baker. (Later named Fort Logan)
The Fontenelle, May Lowry, Ida Stockdale, Katie P. Kountz and
the Peninah were the Kountz steamboats. The first
vessel Peninah arrived at Carroll on May 8, 1874--the
cargo was promptly transferred to the Diamond R Mule
Train. Although the freight did arrive at Helena ahead
of the Fort Benton river route, rejoicing was
short-lived for the Kountz line soon proved inept.
September 1874:
Carroll
Landing, population 75 to 200. George Clendinen Jr.
-store- postmaster. Post office established: June 22,
1874, Dawson County, Montana Territory, discontinued
October 30, 1887. Murphy, Neel & Company - branch
establishment; these stores offered luxuries as well
as necessities which could be found at Helena. T.L.
Marshall hotel. G.R. Norris - saloon. Captain C.C.
Rawn and Lt. Wm. Logan - Infantry Station. These
buildings were situated on an alluvial plain, 20 feet
above the watermark. Kountz employees promised a levee
to be built, but was not done.
1875:
The
Coulson Steamboat Line replaced the Kountz Line in
order to provide better river service. It was
impossible to transport entire cargoes over land, no
matter where they were unloaded and the layover was
hauled at a reduced rate as the freighters endeavored
to get the goods through before winter. During 1875
season mail delivery between Carroll and Helena was
made in three days by stagecoach. Freight wagons took
twenty to thirty days. By July 1875, Indian attacks
were occurring at these locations: Camp Lewis, 3
recruits killed and 60 horses stolen; Armells Station,
33 of the 46 mules were ran off and at Deep Creek
Station, the stock herder was murdered. The Sioux
invaded Carroll and took many picketed horses. A
complete herd of mules were stolen from Diamond City.
A warning from a Camp Louis soldier stated, "remove
your Diamond R outfit from this road before the Sioux
do it for you." A call for more military protection
was issued, but none came. On November 11, 1875, an
anonymous writer from Carroll stated, "The freighting
season here is now closed, perhaps for good in our
day!"
BLACK BUTTE
To Black
Butte
The Sentinel of the Prairie
Guardian of us all
How many years have you watched us
Guiding us Great and Small
The Indian
held you in reverence
The pioneers kept you in sight
Standing apart from the mountains
You guided them home at night.
From your
heights one can gaze on forever
to the north, south, east and west
Overlooking great miles of Montana
We all regard as the Best
By Charlotte Coulter
Black Butte is probably
the most famous of the landmarks in the area. It can be
seen from the Winnett turn off on Highway 87 to the Hays
Hill. Early settlers gave it the tribute of being an
ancient volcano because
because the snow never lay on the summit.
A Roy science teacher and some of his students measured
the temperature of the Butte at one time and discovered
that not too far beneath the surface the temperature was
several degrees warmer than on top; another reason why the
snow never stays long.
There are several stories about how it got its name. One is
that Lewis and Clark, on their expedition, named this
promontory when they named the Judith Mountains. Another
story is that it got its name because it once burned off
leaving it totally black. Maybe it burned off before Lewis
and Clark came. Never-the-less the Butte usually looks
black from all directions, no matter how bright or how
cloudy the day.
On the topmost part of Black Butte is a place that was
used by the Indians for their signal point. Using limbs
from trees they carried there for signal fires, they made
smoke signals with buffalo skins or robes.
It is said that whenever you see a halo on the Butte, look
out for the weather. Many times when the clouds are
hanging low and blowing around the Judiths; they dissipate
when they reach the pass between them and the Butte and
leave Black Butte standing -- all alone.
ROSS PASS
FREIGHT ROAD
by Marie Zahn
Ross Pass
is the gateway in the Judith Mountains between Rocky Point
and Fort Maginnis. In the 1880's Rocky Point and Wilder
were associated with Fort Maginnis and the telegraph line
between these two points. Freight brought up the Missouri
River on the steamboats was transferred to freight wagon
trains pulled by oxen and horses, bound for the Fort,
Maiden and Gilt Edge.
At the top of the river hill the road followed the old
Carroll Trail to Cone Butte, turning south and heading
through Ross Pass instead of going around the Judith
Mountains. The country through Ross Pass is rugged and
scenic.
A road house called the "Mountain House" was located near the
summit on the Gilt Edge side. This crude saloon was owned
and run by Jim Atkinson, known as "Buckskin Jimmie". This
is where tired wagon masters and their crews, military
scouts, prospectors and trail-weary cowboys stopped to wet
their whistles. The Mountain House was built in 1881 or
1882 and operated only a short time due to a tragedy.
A killing took place over a poker game -- the victim being a
stranger who rode up and sat in on the game. At first he
was winning, but began losing heavily and when asked to
pay up, he pulled a gun and tried to kill the winner. Jim
stepped in and ordered the man to lay down his gun and
leave the premises, but instead he fired at Jim.
Atkinson was a no gun man but was cool-headed and a good
shot -- he fired once and killed the man in self defense.
The stranger carried no identification and no one knew from
where he came. He was buried in an unmarked grave about
200 feet to the left of the saloon. No charges were made
against Athinson, but shortly after he closed and
abandoned the Mountain House, He went to the lower
Yellowstone valley where he worked as a packer and helper
at the Burns Trading Post. In 1883 Jim Atkinson and Millie
Burns were married and they moved by covered wagon to
homestead at the present site of Roy, Montana. Their
buildings were across the Box Elder Creek and just below
where the present Roy Stockyards are located. There was a
good spring of water at this point.
Jimmie was employed hauling government freight from Fort
Benton to Fort Maginnis and supplies to the McNamara store
at Fort Maginnis and the mining town of Maiden for four
years during this era.
PHOTO-DESCRIPTIONS
-
L. to R.:Murray Deaton, Asa
Carpenter, Henry Otten, Dick Reed, Herman Otten and Bill
Cook. Some of the other men rode for Deaton were: Chunky
Conolly, Tom McAlpine, Frank Morrison, Freddie Fox, Bert
McCracken.
-
Black Butte, as seen from
the south.
1 Changes made
by Illa Willmore