YELLOWSTONE COUNTY, MONTANA

Yellowstone County – Your Ancestral Past Trail Series

Out in the Boonies #7

Pompeys Pillar

By Dave Dodge

Rock Cairns on Local Trails - Trek #7

Saturday, January 01, 2005

Rock Cairns (sometimes called monuments) are scattered throughout the Pryor Basin & South Hills areas in pre-Yellowstone County [1] . Sheepherders created many in the 1900’s to assist them in establishing a landmark for their particular local territory of herd management when leases were permitted for grazing. This trek considers only the ones created for use by travelers for route directions or land ownership markers, although one is reported to perhaps be a sheepherder’s cairn. Most of the cairns created for section markers by the original land surveyors has long since been destroyed. Not so much by farming, as by cattle grazing. Seems the cattle liked to rub against the stone surfaces, which soon fell away and became scattered about. The many Cairns created by the land surveyors were about 2-1/2 to 3 feet high and had a general pyramid type shape. Almost no history exists about the Cairn route markers construction that can be seen along the route described in this Trek. None of the surveyors field notes consulted in this research identified any rock cairn (excepting for the small survey corner markers.) This would indicate that these surviving cairns were made after the area was settled. However, it is odd that they are placed precisely to show the early trail directions, yet no evidence of their early existence was located. This trek can be taken is pieces, and it is recommended that you pack lunches, survival equipment and protective clothing (just-in-case.)

Staging area – Twin Monuments (Dave Trek #2) 2 Hours & critical to the understanding of the region.

1.      Trail Section #1 – Cottonwood Trail Cutoff & Road to Silesia (Bridger Trail) 1 hour

2.      Trail Section #2 – Trek to McCormick’s Trail (Monument Trail) 1 to 3 hours

3.      Trail Section #3 – McCormick’s Hill Descent to Pryor Creek (Monument Trail) 2-4 hours

4.     Trail Section #4 – Bozeman Trail (Sawyer’s 1866 Trail) 3-5 hours

These segments can be separately taken. But due to the elusive nature of the routes it is suggested that careful planning of the routes be observed before starting. Experienced personnel have traversed the routes many times over decades, and still missed the landmarks noted in this trek. Please be patient and very observant.  Once you see your first rock cairn, all the others will POP into view, as if by magic. The ones located on the southern side of the Pryor’s (other treks) will then become clearly evident.

Trek #7 – Pryor Gap to Monument Peak-WY

This Trek considers only portions of the trail currently contained within the 1851 Crow Indian Reservation boundary. There are four sections of it being platted for viewing. The old Indian trails and wagon roads where the rock Cairns and circular route markers are noted are not plotted on existing maps. A keen-eye is required. An overview map of the entire region is shown on Map 7.

The original area trail passing through the Pryor valley has several names, depending where and when one was traveling at the time: Teepee Trail, Mee-Tse-Tee Trail, Bridger Trail, Bridger Trail Cutoff, Sawyer’s Trail, Bozeman Trail, Bozeman Military Supply Trail, Monument Trail, McCormick’s Trail or Hogs-Back Trail, Spring Creek Road and probably others. These are essentially parts of the same original trail network. The cairns and route markers noted in this Trek are mainly located on private land. Some locations are not specifically identified so as to protect the landowner’s requests.

The Montana Territorial Maps, created initially by Walter W. deLacy, and then followed by the ones created by the State’s Survey General’s Office from 1866 through 1873, made gross estimates of where the major landmarks that existed in the eastern portion of the state were located. The mountains, streams and rivers were askew to their true location by several miles, leaving a general impression of where these landmarks were actually located. This seems to be incredible, since by this time the Corps of Engineers had produced numerous maps showing their true locations. Some of the maps were generated as part of NPR’s survey searches for possible routes, others from explorations, surveys and reconnaissances by the military. Why none of these maps were used to plot the eastern portion of the territory prior to the time when the survey general would make an official report hasn’t been explained. Lt. Maynandier & Captain Raynolds, with Jim Bridger as chief guide, created the best cohesive map for Montana when they were mapping the territory in 1859 & 1860. The map was compiled in 1860, and released to the public seven years later.  Included on the map, at time of release were the major known trails and the NPR northern route created by Governor Stevens in 1853. The numerous miscellaneous surveys that were accomplished are not specifically shown on this map. The landmark locations identified match current locations with negligible error in plotting.

The latitude locations appear to be placed at the same relative locations as current maps. The longitudes are typically plotted late (to the west of their true position) by approximately one-second of arc. This translates to a 1-1/2 mile west of true position error. However, for the local area, this error is consistent, and thus the mileage definitions between recognized points are true.

Yellowstone Kelly, during his campaigning with General Miles and others prior to 1870, traveled the local areas with a great deal of frequency, although he personally took great pains to keep off the Indian Trails and other such type of roads. This he did to increase his survivability. But he knew where most all of the trails were located, and the names of many streams and mountain passes that weren’t noted on the Maynandier Map. He copied the map, and added numerous attributes that were missing and their names [2] . The Montana National Guard picked up the original map, as it was prepared while Kelly was on the military payroll, and was supposed to be placed on display (2004.) A full-scale copy is available for viewing by contacting the Webmaster. The Monument Trail, discussed in this trek, is noted, and is listed as a “Wagon Road”. This road passes through Devil’s Gap.

The Pryor Mountains were considered blessed by the Crow Indians, and became a place for the braves to fast and receive visions. Named after Nathaniel Pryor of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, the Pryors, or Baahpuuo Isawaxaawuua (Hitting the Rock Mountains) as the Crow called them, rise from the heart of traditional Crow Country [3] . Additionally these mountain ranges were an important refuge for tribal members in times of need. Pryor Pass, (Pryor Gap as it was later renamed), was called “Hits-with-the Arrows” gap by the Crows. The last time it was used for protection was in 1870 [4] .

The name came about from the Indian practice of shooting arrows at “Arrow Rock”, a large rock formation in the gap, which resembles an arrowhead. It was meant to be a sacrifice to the god-like “Little People” who were supposed to be dwelling in the rock. [Pryor Creek was called Arrow Creek; the Pryor’s was Arrowhead Mountains, another name for the Pryor’s was the Land of the Eagle.] Two versions were offered for the existence of these Little People: 1) They emerged from Arrow Rock to give advise to a chieftain, who was fasting, and later became a highly respected medicine man; 2) a Crow Indian couple were traveling through the gap with their infant son. Th baby was fastened onto a dog travois, but he fell off and was lost. Years later, when “evil” times befell the Crow Tribe, a young man emerged from the rock and told the tribe where they could find food. This young man was believed to have been the lost baby, and subsequently raised by the Little People. In paying homage to the Little People, offerings consisting of arrows and rock pilings were left at Arrow Rock. Thus safe passage through the gap would be assured. Close to Arrow Rock, a couple of miles to the south, is a cave appropriately named “Home of the Little People.” It has been said that the cave has supernatural powers for one who “is able to withstand the Little People’s abuse before they give you the power.” [5] Some believe the Little People left when the railroad tunnel was dug through the mountains others think they have returned.

In 1807, John Colter, who was a member of the Lewis & Clark Expedition, obtained his release from the group when they were on the return trip through the Pryor area. During the winter of 1807-1808, he passed southward through the gap, and onward towards the Big Horn Basin in Wyoming. Colter’s Hell, is the name given to the rugged area between the Big Horn River and Stinking Water Creek juncture (renamed Shoshone River.) Many people erroneously refer to Colter’s Hell as being Yellowstone Park. Colter’s objective in his early travels was to develop fur trading in the area.

During the intervening years, the Pryor-South Hills areas became a haven for the Fur Companies. The smaller trapping groups were competing against the American Fur Company, and traveled the areas between Wind River and Pryor Creek. Typically they wintered in some small basins in the Pryor Mountains. In the early winter of 1848, a riving band of seven Blackfeet discovered the trappers, and tried to steal their horses. Two Blackfeet were killed, and ran off. Fearing that their location might be exposed, the trappers laid a trap for the Blackfeet in Pryor Gap, killing all when they passed through. [6]

In 1831 Jim Bridger was guide for Jeremiah Smith’s fur hunting expedition going from the Powder River area back to their Green River planned meeting place. They traveled from the Big Horn River crossing [Emigrant’s or Spotted Rabbit’s Crossing near Fort C. F. Smith] through the valley floor, following the Teepee Trail to Pryor Creek [Pryor Town], and southward through the low pass in the Pryor Mountains [Pryor Pass, e.g., Gap.] From there they traveled on the west side of the Big Horn Mountain areas and onward into the Green River Valley. In 1859 Jim was guide for Captain Raynolds [7] when he traveled from the Yellowstone River and south along the east side of the Big Horn Mountains. It was here that Jim led them along another well-traveled Indian Trail [no name provided, and probably was used by the Buffalo] that was well trodden and the soil very tightly packed. It led southward toward the Monument Peak area in Wyoming, and then apparently vanished. There was no record of them seeing any cairns along the route at this time. In 1866 it was reported that the Bozeman Trail was so well marked by “sticks”, that a “blind man” could follow it. This is the section of travel you can visit by car, and see most of the cairns, although Hwy BIA 19 has less than 5% convergence with the actual trail.

After the beaver fur trade deteriorated, the Gap became a haven for freight haulers, with the main route being between Billings and the Big Horn Basin. Many of these runs used the roads that passed through the Twin Monuments’ area. When the railroad came into being in the early 1900’s, the freight haulers vanished. The Crow Indian Treaty ratification of March 3, 1891 opened the non-Indian land for future homesteading. On October 15, 1892, President Harrison issued a proclamation declaring that the land “not reserved for Indians” was open to settlement. This was issued ahead of any survey actions, thus numerous claim-jumpers arrived, taking whatever land they liked. It took a long time to settle the boundaries, and persons were killed over their actions. Immediately, settlements along Sage Creek, Bowler Flats and Crooked Creek sprung up.

Staging Area at Twin Monuments (South Hills)

Bring a GPS, food and water, map & compass, and then travel to the site location (map & travel directions are provided in Trek # 2.) From here use your compass or GPS to locate north. The landmasses are very deceiving to the eye, and most visitors orient themselves about 45 to 90 degrees off from north. Current TOPO and road maps do not accurately show the trails or roads where the two cairns are located. Pictured here is Vernon Drake after completion of the second reconstruction effort he fostered for one of the vandalized cairns. View is looking almost due east. The nearest one is an original construction; the one to the left was reconstructed by having the central rock force concentrated inward and towards the base.[A previous building attempt didn’t employ this technique, and it exploded outward.] Heavy retaining rocks are located about four-feet from the base of each one to assist in maintaining structural integrity. The one on the right (south most cairn) has a bore sight built into it that will be used to align you with the westerly monument trail pathway direction.

Permission to visit this site, located on private land, has been granted. The access road runs alongside of a fence line, but when you are at the monuments, you can see the wagon ruts that run alongside of the fence. The fence was added when the current owners relocated their property lines for improved farming operations.

History of the Twin Monuments

The actual builders haven’t been identified by name, although there is much conjecture. According to the numerous original land survey records about the area, there is no mention of these structures. Accordingly, they had to have been a more recent addition, probably after 1915. William Doss first homesteaded the land, on which the monuments sit, in the early 1900’s, and city records indicate he arrived there between 1915 and 1916. He received his Land Patent on December 5, 1921 [8] . His brother Samuel homesteaded on the property to the east.  However, the monuments are located directly on the mid section line extension of T3S, R25E, Section 32 [homesteaded by Christener Dix on the west, and Walter Dix on the east]; and positioned near the East-West Township Boundary line. The original survey conducted by Carl Gleeson on August 14, 1903, provided no indication of their existence. Neither did the survey conducted by Otis Ross, Oct 29, 1913 or others in the same time frames. They mark the original crossroads to the Pryor Gap, Clark’s Fork River, Big Horn River and Clark’s Fork northern valley area. It was once reported, that during the

building of the Burlington spur line through Pryor Gap, that it provided a directional marker to Red Eye Smith’s Saloon located at the eastern edge of South Hills, just before one descended Monument Trail to the valley floor (located on the south edge of Alphonso McCormick’s future homestead.) It also was a marker to assist in locating Brazwell Summit, a post office & General Store [about 1-1/2 mile NW of the cairns] operated by Julia Woods, on the old McCormick freight trail and future Blue Creek-Hillcrest Roads that led to Billings. The PO was inactive by 1918 and closed by 1925. This place was located in Township 3S, Range 25E, at center of Section 28. The original trail for Cottonwood, shown in section 5 was on the north side of the creek, and went in a NE direction. Drake and others cut the road shown going north on the east half of section 5.

Before continuing to Section 1 of the trek, locate the ½” diameter bore sight in the southernmost cairn (See Driving Instructions – Dave 2), and see where it is pointed. There was a rock cairn located on Stratford Hill, prior to Robert Stratford’s homestead, and it sat alongside of Monument Trail. This is where Section 2 of this trek continues.

Please pause at the site for a moment, look around, and reflect upon the enormous amount of effort that Vernon Drake put into this project before continuing on the trek. Of all the activities he undertook to preserve, this was the one he loved most dearly, and it was the most eluding.

Since the South Hills’ rims are slightly south of the Township 3 South line, it seems probable that the Dix brothers placed the markers there to separate their two properties, not realizing that they missed their actual boundary line by a few feet. Their name “DIX” could be construed to mean two, thus the construction of the two cairns. No record has been located to confirm or deny this allegation. In locating the monuments, three separate GPS attempts were made, but each varied in altitude by over a thousand feet, and the location by about ½ mile. This oddity hasn’t been explained. The coordinates and locations provided below were extracted from the Garmin GPS Topo Map “Billings-Helena-Red Lodge Terrain.”

GPS Location – approximate centerline of the monuments: 45° 31’ 20.44” W   108° 39’ 43.45” N.

Trail Section #1 – Cottonwood Trail – “Hogs Back Trail Cutoff to Cottonwood Trail”

This wagon trail (1-Cutoff in RED) passing just below the Section 5 centerline, connects the original Cottonwood Trail with the 2-Silesia Road (e.g., Ranch Road on private property.) 3-Monument Trail joins the other two and goes eastward towards the highest point in Yellowstone County. The dashed roadway near the right edge of the picture is the current track of Cottonwood Road. Most of this road was recut to its present location by Vernon Drake’s father. The earlier road was a little more to the east. The Hog’s Back trail no longer exists, but presumably was the portion of this trail leading to the Silesia-Rockvale area, and on towards the Laurel valley area. About where the blue line intersects the Cutoff on top of the ridge, is a chained entrance gate. Drive over to the location. Access into the valley floor or onto the road leading to Silesia, is not permitted. The descent into the valley floor is quite steep, and one can only imagine how it was to take wagon-loaded freighters up or down this hill. Local

lore indicates that the freighters hauling supplies to their campsites below would go down loaded, but would come up the hill at another place, probably Bird Hill [just west of Stratford Hill] that was the terminus for the original Cottonwood Trail. There are two other locations to access the valley floor from this general vicinity. The Monument Trail & Road to Silesia were used by Perry McAdow to haul supplies to Fort CF Smith, by Jim Bridger when he guided emigrant wagons through Pryor (Pass) Gap and on towards Virginia City, and when he was guiding military contingents to Fort CF Smith. The road follows the edge of the South Hills rims, and mostly consists of a rocky sandstone substrate. It can be used in wet weather without danger of getting stuck. Being on top of the rims edge also provided good visibility so as to avoid potential Indian attacks during the early troubled times. Later the pathways were used by a considerable number of freighter wagons. It is most likely that the ruts one can see throughout the area were created by these huge and heavy wagons. Many thousands of trips were conducted into the Pryor area to support the military needs and the grazing supply needs of millions of animals. When one finds wagon ruts that appear to be on the Bozeman Trail, in all probability they are the remnants of these freighters passage.

At the Twin monuments, take a sighting SW at a 30° angle [the same angle on which the monuments are constructed] and follow it until you can see into the valley floor. About 3.2 miles distant, at the 4100-foot level in Section 19NW is another rock cairn perched on the northwest slope of the canyon wall [identified in blue]. It is located on private land, and was there before homesteading took place. It is very difficult to locate, and requires a lot of patience, a steady hand and a good pair of binoculars. There is another cairn, located midway between the two end points, at the 4200-foot level, on the south edge of a canyon wall on BLM land in Section 7SE that blocks its view from the rims. It is slightly offset to the west of the 30-degree line of sight. Pieces of old freighter trails exist that follow the cairns, and these might be markers for that trail.

Trail Section #2 – Trail to McCormick’s Hill (e.g. Monument Trail)

Sections of the original trail leading eastward from the Twin Monuments entrance gate are not evident since the roads have been relocated. Follow the Cottonwood Road north to the Radio Towers. This view is looking east from the monuments; Stratford Hill is in the distance. The bore sighting places the [removed] cairn just to the left of the high peak. The highest point in the county is located there at an elevation of 4971 feet.(BM Blue)

Just before reaching the towers, on the right is a small dirt access trail (road) leading to a fence line. This is continuation of the Monument Trail. Permission to cross is required, so please pass this portion. The trail is still partially visible, but the years of wagon travel over the rocky terrain can still be discerned. Virtually the entire route passes within a few feet of the cliff’s edges. When the Stratford ranch site is reached, the trail disappears. It used to pass directly NE through the hilltop, a direct route to the McCormick Hill passageway. The trail connecting with Collier Road runs along the west fence line alongside of the farmland, close to where the local school used to be located. Portions of the trail are on Indian land.

Large pieces of broken sandstone are gathered and mark each turn of the trail, and additionally the edge of the trail has rocks scattered alongside of it leading to Stratford Hill. According to the landowners, these were there when the land was acquired. The farmers did not place them there. These are partially buried into the rocky soil, and are mostly covered with moss. It appears as though they were previously upright, but have fallen down over the years. According

to some of the Crow Indian ranchers, this trail was marked with a lot of rocks (monuments.) The trail is narrow, but apparently with a purpose: on the south the hillside drops off and is dangerous to travel; on the north the soil is almost devoid of rocks, making it impassable during wet weather. The stones must have been placed so as to make sure the traveler will arrive safely.

This section shows the trail passing along the south edge of the hills, and onto the Reservation land. The cutoff trail leading to Cormier Road can be seen running diagonally across Sections 2 & 36. The descent from McCormick’s Hill is shown in the upper right. The location in Section labeled “Blue” is the high point marker for Yellowstone County. Created in 1925 the marker shows the elevation to be 4971 feet. [Note: some maps erroneously state 4951or 4952 feet.]

GPS Location: 45° 31’ 9.13” N:  108° 35’ 51.86” W

Return to Cottonwood Road and drive to McCormick’s Hill [Corner of Cormier Road in Section 30, T26E] if you wish to visit the continuation of the trail (Section 3.) Otherwise skip this and go directly to Section 4, and travel along the “Bozeman Trail”, BIA HWY 19. To reach Hwy 19, take Cottonwood Road south.

Trail Section #3 – McCormick’s Hill Descent to Pryor Creek (Monument Trail)

This section of the trail [dashed double lines] descends from the hillside located in Section 30, T3S R26E. The access gate (2002) is shown below.

The trail goes for about 100 yards, and then starts its descent into the valley floor. The private road is really only wide enough for a high clearance 4-wheel drive vehicle, but during fire emergencies, the large fire truck, operated by the Blue Creek Fire Department, has been known to traverse the road. Quite naturally, when partway down it has also been stuck! Before the road was cut into the upper edge of the rims, it is believed that the freighters traversed directly up the gentle slope of the hill.

There are six fence lines that have to be crossed when descending through the dry land farming & grazing areas. Local residents reported that the end of the trail [Pryor Creek] used to have a rock cairn placed there to denote the location of the trail. The trail continues on the south side of Pryor Creek, following the Hay Creek passageway and onto Fort CF Smith by following portions of he old Teepee Trail.

When the trail reaches the NE corner of Section 31 [halfway to Pryor Creek] it branches two ways: east to Pryor Creek [Monument Trail}, and south to Pryor Gap [Passing through Four-Corners] located between Sections 18 & 19. This southern cutoff is probably part of the Bridger Trail.

There are several smaller trails scattered throughout the Reservation, and these tend to obscure the original routes. Freighters and landowners throughout the last century created most of the added trails. The south route through four corners is on private land until it reaches Hwy 19. At the juncture of four corners, located on a southern branch of Fourth of July Creek is another cairn, perched upon a rocky ledge. It has been standing as long as the residents can recall from early times. This cairn is about six-feet high, and 3-feet in diameter at the base.

The Crow Indians formed various types of rock piles that are associated with Tribal Warfare during the mid-1880’s.  These were markers for fallen warriors or enemies, noteworthy feats, battlegrounds, shrines and hero’s monuments. They were scattered across the county for many years until the land they rested upon was plowed. Access to the ones on the north side of Pryor Gap cannot be seen. Most of these monuments are considered sacred; so their precise locations or pictures are not provided. Some of the more noteworthy ones are [9] :

• At Pryor Gap a neat row of stone piles are set along the roadway commemorating a great battle against the Arapaho that occurred there. It is now a tribal shrine. Passer bys add stones to the small piles for safe passage. Several of the mountain passes in the area have such markers.

• At the north end of Pryor Gap, located a short distance from the last mound marking the battle, denoted the place where Medicine Crow rode between two fleeing Arapaho warriors whom he killed just as his horse was shot. Farming has destroyed this monument.
• About ¼ mile southwest from the southernmost pile of Pryor Gap markers, and on the other side of Sage Creek (at the foot of Arrow Rock) are three rock piles. This is where the Crows offered rocks and beads to the “mythical” Little People. Some braves would shoot arrows into the cliff crevasses.
• At Wolf Mountain a large pile of rocks was created that depicted the exact spot where Yellow Leggings was killed. This was at the north end of the mountain range.
• A rock pile at the base of Skeleton Cliff (Kelly’s Mountain – North Rims), near where the Boothill is located, was a place where a shrine was created. This gave honor to those who died in the mid 1840’s from smallpox. Indians who passed by would pick up another stone, spit on it, and then place onto the pile in sacred memory of the event that killed so many of the Crow tribe. This action would hopefully keep him safe.
• A trail marker (ring) [10] is located midway between Warren and Bowler, on the Indian - - Bridger Trail, leading to Pryor Gap.
• A trail marker (ring) is located about one mile northwest of Bowler, indicating track of the Bridger Cutoff Trail, before reaching Pryor Gap.
• A trail marker (ring) is located on the Bad Pass Trail, near to the Montana-Wyoming border crossing.
• A trail marker (ring) is located on the Wolf Mountain trail to Monument Peak – Medicine Wheel.
• Next travel south on Cottonwood Road until reaching Hwy 19.

Trail Section #4 – Bozeman Trail [Sawyer’s 1866 Trail]

After reaching Hwy 19, drive east until you reach Pryor. Starting at the east edge of town, there will be mile markers placed alongside. Use these to assist in locating the cairns.

The first cairn is located about 1/2-mile to the southeast of Hwy 19 at route marker 19 + ½ mile.

It is difficult to see and is called Buster Creek Cairn. It is located on the east slope of a small hillside on East Buster Creek. The Bozeman Trail goes due north at this point following the east bank of the creek bed, and to the northeast of the cairn in Section 16 by about one mile. Hwy 19 & the Bozeman Trail are not the same at this location. [Photo – Trails & Tales, current access requires permission.]

Just past Hwy marker 20, on the right are the Twin Wolf Monuments.

They are located on the Raferty Ranch property. Reportedly created by the Crow Indians, the tops originally had a slightly offset arrangement of flat stones giving them the appearance of crouching wolves. They are reported to be a territorial tribal marker, the meaning of which has been lost.  However, they are directly on the Bozeman Trail pathway, and since they are on the down-slope of a small hill, this would indicate it might also be a route marker for the Teepee Trail.

 Early travelers on the emigrant trains reported none of these monuments alongside Hwy 19 AS BEING IN EXISTENCE, or else they were not seen by them, which would have been virtually impossible; so all must have been created after the area was settled, and subsequently created for used as land territory markers for a lessee (sheepherder) or owner.

Continuing east on BIA 19, at approximately 22-1/2 miles, on the right are large that appear to have been placed there by some unknown entity. These rock formations are well described by some of the wagon train diarists as they passed through the region.

Return to Out in the Boonies Index